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The old goat is at it again


phoenix2013

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Obviously.....G  G... .. Goat-Gurddle... 

Only need grade 3 fasteners....needed ....goat is Old....

Drive on..... (Beeaware of.... Geezer-Goats)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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1 hour ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

Head lifting device to remove cylinder head from block....

A & J ,

Henry will likely just use some of the old handcuffs he collected from his outlaw days to just clamp one of the cuff around a rocker arm and hook the other end of the cuff with the cherry picker......who says crime does not pay.......

 

In a far away place I watched a few "natives" pull a CAT head with a rope over a big tree limb and dip the water out of the cylinders and then paint the old head gasket with alum--roof--coat and throw the head back on and it was still running when I escaped a month later......

Shucks Henry with a little roof coating you might get by for less than $29,00.......but maybe not.......

Drive on........(off with Henry's .......head)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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The soon to be famious..........I F N H M S

Inner

Frame

Narrow

Hitch

Mounting

System.......

I F N H M S part number=  +$$$$.00

M H R S 

Make Henry Rich Someday

 

Drive on.........(Old goats seldom rest.....)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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14 minutes ago, phoenix2013 said:

The head was off on this truck once before.

a1jiZwdl.jpg

R8eEOhZl.jpg

I remember how expensive that son of a bitch was then.

In the meantime we are creating "assemblies".

Io2gRTRl.jpg

and some of you guys are getting "warm"

Henry,

Yank that old Red-Top out and shoehorn in a itty-bitty M11 into the V--toter it has only ONE head about 6 feet long and weighs so darn much that the number will not fit in my spreadsheet........

If a guy comes into you shop to steal your M11 head........let him......you sure don't want to stop anyone that can pick up a M11 head.....

 

Drive on.........(single head engines are a bad idea)

 

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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Just now, phoenix2013 said:

Bingo

oYSteOll.jpg

Ya Henry but .........did I get the part name right and did I get the price right?

 

Drive on..........(get hitched any old way ya can)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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This is a solution for "one off" for 13 Speed. I'm not changing the basic mounting of the ETs not the expectations that they will "reside" in the rear behind the rear axle.

The above is a result of "insomnia musings" when given a challenge since I can't leave a challenge "un-challenged", You know the personality, an ornery old bastard (pardon, old goat), cantankerous, opinionated, uncompromising, married to a woman who has developed sufficient filters to maintain the relationship. 

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Time to install it in the truck.

k3mkt3fl.jpg

 

KfCHR8Gl.jpg

The two forward and the two rear hitch bolts securing the ET to the mounting plate will be longer and mount the hitch to the lateral supports.

KxSXRqJl.jpg

With the mounting plate trimmed to the size of the actual hitch it should drop right down between the rails. The angle will be welded to the tube

9boZbmfl.jpg

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Henry, with just 4 bolts attaching to the frame, I assume you will be welding it as well (unless you are using something in the neighborhood of 3/4 or 7/8" bolts)? I noticed that you have chamfered the clip angles to clear the inside radius of the frame. Did you ever consider offsetting the connection to the top to avoid that by using an additional section of tube full pen welded on top of the one you have? That might be easier than grinding that profile unless you are going to machine it.

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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Frame bolts will be 3/4" grade 8, the two through the tube 5/8" grade 8. Tube spacers inside the rectangular tube for the 5/8" bolts to prevent the tube walls from flexing when torquing the 5/8s.

It's good to have a structural engineer to look over one's shoulder. By the way this concept is a variation of what you originally suggested when the subject came up..

I have a machine shop that can chamfer parts for me pretty quick, rather than do both edges of the angles to make them universal I might do two pairs with one edge. Don't want to raise things off the bottom flange more than 4 inches it provides the 47" from the ground position and I'd like as much bearing surface on the flange as possible since that footprint is only 3 inches wide.

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2 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

Time to install it in the truck.

k3mkt3fl.jpg

 

KfCHR8Gl.jpg

The two forward and the two rear hitch bolts securing the ET to the mounting plate will be longer and mount the hitch to the lateral supports.

KxSXRqJl.jpg

With the mounting plate trimmed to the size of the actual hitch it should drop right down between the rails. The angle will be welded to the tube

 

Henry,

Could this solution straddle the rear axle?  Is it really a "one off" or can we convince $you$ otherwise? :D

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1 hour ago, phoenix2013 said:

Frame bolts will be 3/4" grade 8, the two through the tube 5/8" grade 8. Tube spacers inside the rectangular tube for the 5/8" bolts to prevent the tube walls from flexing when torquing the 5/8s.

It's good to have a structural engineer to look over one's shoulder. By the way this concept is a variation of what you originally suggested when the subject came up..

I have a machine shop that can chamfer parts for me pretty quick, rather than do both edges of the angles to make them universal I might do two pairs with one edge. Don't want to raise things off the bottom flange more than 4 inches it provides the 47" from the ground position and I'd like as much bearing surface on the flange as possible since that footprint is only 3 inches wide.

Should be simple enough on the angles, make them a right and left hand piece and that will eliminate 1/2 of the machining cost.

This is what I was thinking about on the ends but don't know if you have the room. You could also modify that by adding closure plates to stiffen the ends of the tube if needed. It would take a short section of tube and 4 welds but would eliminate the machining and stiffen the ends while keeping the bearing on the bottom flange. If you don't have any obstructions, you could even use two bolts in the clip angle to frame connection.

Edit, this is a 3D pdf file that will need a correct viewer.

ET Support.pdf

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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There's a myriad of ways to skin this cat.  Could ditch the tubing and use C channel, then the frame brackets are easily bolted without squishing tubing, or could be fully welded to the channel.  (Or welded and bolted) Like GH said, you could shift the bracket location up slightly and eliminate the need to chamfer the brackets.

 

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I really appreciate Henry for coming up with this new mounting system. It is going to make getting the hitch installed soooo much easier. I don't think people are going to be lining up to put their hitches forward but there will be some fore sure. It will give people choices and that is usually a good thing. Henry did say that this new system will make it easier for some people who are mounting their hitches in the traditional rear of axle position as it will clear most of the huck bolts and should cut down on hole drilling/huck bolt cutting. 

I guess we will all find out for sure in early October. I would love to make it to the Rally but I am not sure if I will be ready to go by then. It will be close...

Anyone got any high powered contacts at Volvo who could get my truck down the line a week or two quicker? :)

Chris, Tracey, Aria & Lola

2018 Volvo VNR 400, D13 I-Shift

2018 NH 48' Majestic

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21 minutes ago, jollyrogr said:

There's a myriad of ways to skin this cat.  Could ditch the tubing and use C channel, then the frame brackets are easily bolted without squishing tubing, or could be fully welded to the channel.  (Or welded and bolted) Like GH said, you could shift the bracket location up slightly and eliminate the need to chamfer the brackets.

 

The tubing has a higher section modulus for the depth and resists torsion a LOT better than a C shape. I think Henry is limited in depth to clear everything on the suspension and diff and limited on the top side to prevent putting the hitch to high. The Tube section fits in that area nicely and solves both problems.

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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22 minutes ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

The tubing has a higher section modulus for the depth and resists torsion a LOT better than a C shape. I think Henry is limited in depth to clear everything on the suspension and diff and limited on the top side to prevent putting the hitch to high. The Tube section fits in that area nicely and solves both problems.

Makes sense.  Using spacers in the tube is a simple solution to get the added strength of the tubing.

 

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36 minutes ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

The tubing has a higher section modulus for the depth and resists torsion a LOT better than a C shape. I think Henry is limited in depth to clear everything on the suspension and diff and limited on the top side to prevent putting the hitch to high. The Tube section fits in that area nicely and solves both problems.

Exactly the reason why I used section of tubing combined with an angle. A 4" x 4" x 1/2" would do it and be much simpler, but I wanted the structural advantages of the tubing working in there.

3 hours ago, TheLongWayHome said:

Henry,

Could this solution straddle the rear axle?  Is it really a "one off" or can we convince $you$ otherwise? :D

TheLongWayHome, that's one challenge I might leave un-challenged. Lot's of suspension stuff in there, leveling valve, the Panhard rod and usually some sort of brace nearby. I considered it for a bit (about 5 seconds), utilizing a low profile hitch, like an ET Jr., but it is still a project that does not lends itself to simple solutions, like the one you see above. 

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