Inverter Question

[Five Wood]

If you don't want to hard wire an inverter into the system, you run an extension cord from the inverter up to the inside of the RV to power the items you want.  What would be wrong with making a short male/male extension cord, to plug into the inverter and then plug into a receptacle that's in the compartment where the inverter is?  You then go to the 110 fuse box, turn off all breakers including the main and then just turn on the breaker that you have the inverter plugged into and turn on the breaker that you want to use?

Be kind with your responses. . . I never claimed to be an electrician

Jim

[Darryl&Rita]

Most inverters will go "Poof" if you forget the Suicide cord.

[Sehc]

So much wrong with that. So many ways things can go wrong. And that only damages the vehicle. What about the possibility of electrocution?

[Kirk W]

The first issue that I see is one of safety. Male to male means that you haItve bear pins with power on them, or could have. Possible, yes but I'd not do that. If you are going to run a cord, take the cord with its female end in place and connect what you wish to use to that. 

[Yarome]

What you might consider doing... that may accomplish what I am assuming you are trying to do... would be to use your rigs main external power cord to plug directly into your inverter. No muss no fuss.

It's important to remember to flip off any circuits you do NOT want to power with the inverter though (converter/charger, water heater, aircon, etc.)

[trailertraveler]

17 minutes ago, Yarome said:

What you might consider doing... that may accomplish what I am assuming you are trying to do... would be to use your rigs main external power cord to plug directly into your inverter. No muss no fuss.

It's important to remember to flip off any circuits you do NOT want to power with the inverter though (converter/charger, water heater, aircon, etc.)

Or you could add a 20 Amp inlet like this or a 30 Amp inlet and add outlets where you want them. This would allow you to leave the 12V systems like the refrigerator, furnace controls, propane detector, etc. in operation if so desired.  If you wire in an appropriate size breaker, you could also connect this circuit to a second power source to power a space heater or other higher draw appliance separate from the RV's primary system. I did this so that we can run two space heaters without worry of over loading the RV's 30 Amp service. When connected to shore power, it gives me a 30 Amp and 20 Amp service. One does have to make sure that the power pedestal is wired such that it can handle this. 

[oldjohnt]

Good Morning Five Wood, yours is a legitimate questions and not to worry I always try my best to be polite, kind and professional in my answers. For those who don't like my sometime complex detailed responses, you don't have to read this !! 

1) SURE what you propose "can work" but in the profession we referred to such as "suicide cords" and while the electrical challenged Billy Bobs and Bubbas out there may do it and never have a problem ITS JUST NOT ANY PROPER LET ALONE SAFE METHOD I WOULD GO ON RECORD AS APPROVING.

2) While you mentioned turning off breakers, which is good, think of other users or kids or grandkids who have no idea what's going on and if breakers are NOT off you could energize say the exposed male ends of the RV power cord HOT AND LIVE let alone what happens if it was left plugged into the RV pedestal !!!!! What's referred to as "backfeeding" via panel branch circuit breakers (what your effectively suggesting) is and can be done with portable generators or other energy sources, when there are mechanical safety interlock mechanisms such that no backfeed is possible UNLESS the panels main breaker is opened. Those sliding mechanical safety interlocks used for backfeeding a panel are like the cheapest form of approved Transfer Switching

3) Obviously there are NEC approved methods such as Transfer Switches to accomplish your goal, but yes that can be expensive 

THAT ALL BEING SAID, I think the cheapest easiest and one of the safest methods to accomplish your goals IS TO DO AS YAROME SUGGESTED AND VERY SIMPLY PLUG THE RV POWER CORD (use any necessary adapters) INTO THE INVERTERS OUTPUT, subject to any 30 or 50 amp requirements voltage and current etc. I'm thinking a 30 amp system basically, if its 50 MORE is involved.

 a) For one,  there's no problem with simultaneous (RV Park and Inverter) connections and back feeds,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,b) Theres no problem having live hot exposed male plug pins exposed,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,c)  Its a cheap efficient method as an approved Transfer Switch arrangement,,,,,,,,,,d) Its pretty much idiot proof lol as you plug the RV power cord into a receptacle fed from the inverters output (using any necessary adapters) so it cant possibly be left plugged to the utility and there's no hot live exposed terminals.

Sure you can do as Yarome suggested and turn off panel breakers to loads not suitable for the Inverters relative small power or just NOT use such loads and don't even flip the breakers. But if tripped as he suggested it sure prevents others from reaching up and switching on the AC lol 

This assumes the Inverter has a Neutral Ground BOND and is configured as a Separately Derived Source being used to feed the RV panel just as if it were the Utility or a Generator etc. This also assumes the Inverters output and feeders are properly over current protected.   

NOTE I'm longggggggggggg retired from Power Distribution Engineering,  rusty and NOT up on the latest NEC, SO NO WARRANTY if in doubt consult competent professionals and NOT what I'm offering

PS this is limited to ONLY ANSWERING YOUR DIRECT QUESTION not other uses and alternatives

PS This is NOT to say what you proposed wont "work" its just to alert you and others to possible safety hazards.

Best wishes and God Bless

John T

[Five Wood]

Thanks for the responses.  I now see why this is not a good idea.

 

Jim

[kinseypw]

I think Yaromes suggestion is excellent. When I first set up the solar and battery system for our RV I deliberately chose an inverter with  an output power block as well as the conventional 15 amp sockets. I cannibalized a 30amp  adapter cord to provide a 30amp socket that I then wired to the power block and used this to plug in the main power cord for my RV. This ensures I get the full output of the inverter (3000watt) available to the RV, The only safety concern is ensure the breaker for the converter circuit is off before I switch on the inverter. We have used this successfully for 4 years with no problems.

[Kirk W]

17 hours ago, kinseypw said:

I get the full output of the inverter (3000watt) available to the RV, The only safety concern is ensure the breaker for the converter circuit is off before I switch on the inverter.

A very simple solution and a safe one.  

[oldjohnt]

Kinsey, looks like we agree, what I like about using the method of plugging the RV power cord into an alternate source of energy outlet/receptacle like Yarome mentioned, be it a Genset or an Inverter in this situation, is:

1) It's pretty much "idiot" proof and "fail safe". It can ONLY be plugged into one outlet at a time so there's no chance of dual sources or backfeeds.

2) It serves as a secure  and relatively inexpensive Transfer Switch function and there's no doubt you're switching ALL CONDUCTORS  UNgrounded as well as Grounded.

3) There's no hot live male plugs or pins exposed like if you used a "suicide cord" grrrrrrrrrrrrrr

So long as there's proper Neutral Ground Bonding, all should be safe and sound.

In several years of RV use and sales I often saw such method used, and although it requires one more step and isn't automatic like an auto transfer switch  ITS JUST SO CHEAP EASY SIMPLE AND FAIL SAFE gotta love it, plus it satisfies the old KISS procedure lol.

PS If using this whole house method of Inverter power, don't forget to NOT turn on big loads or switch their breakers off OOPS lol

John T