Tighten Up Key Electrical Connections

[Ski]

In a previous thread, docj and oldjohnt mentioned to keep key electrical connections tight to avoid voltage drops. What electrical connections should I periodically check?

Al

2008 HR 36RLT 2004 Ram 5.9 dually

[Kirk W]

The primary place is inside of your RV's 120V distribution box. With the vibrations an RV is subject to, any electrical connection can get loose and even the outlets would be good to check occasionally. Just be sure you do these chores with the power cord out! I also take a hard look at the plug on the RV cord to be sure that it hasn't been hot to discolor the pins, show burn marks or signs of melting of the plug. 

[SCClockDr]

DC:

Battery terminals & all primary grounds.

Battery disconnect terminals.

DC distribution B+ & negative terminals.

AC to DC converter + & - terminals.

Inverter + & - terminals.

AC:

Shorepower terminals & junction box connections.

EMS input & output terminals if present.

Breaker panel feedin points plus all other connections in there.

Transfer switch and inverter charger AC terminal connections.

 

Loose connections generate heat which can further deteriorate the connection over time. GB grease can also aid in trouble free connections.

[fly2low]

Question related to the topic

I am a liberal user of Loctite.  Any reason to not use it on these connections??

[Chalkie]

14 hours ago, fly2low said:

Question related to the topic

I am a liberal user of Loctite.  Any reason to not use it on these connections??

None at all. Even Loctite says it is fine. 

[Darryl&Rita]

Wont catch me using it. Vibration isn't the only cause of loose connections.

[Charlied]

Also, look at all the crimp connections for discoloration at the place wires are crimped, this indicates heat from a high resistance connection, it is caused by a voltage drop. 

[jc2]

39 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Wont catch me using it. Vibration isn't the only cause of loose connections.

Would you mind sharing the reason why?

[Darryl&Rita]

Sorry, typing on my phone, & was going to wait until I had a real keyboard. Cold creep happens to copper, as well as Al, just not as severe with copper. Once a connection gets LockTite, are you torquing against the copper, the thread locker, or a combination? How do you tell the difference. The manufacturers of electrical equipment give torque specs, based on clean, dry threads.

[Kirk W]

27 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

The manufacturers of electrical equipment give torque specs, based on clean, dry threads.

I don't use it either and my former employer (not an RV service) told techs not to use it. 

[oldjohnt]

Ski, excellent question and UNFORTUNATELY its EVERY connection, both 12 VDC as well as 120 VAC and there are a ton of them.

Starting in the AC distribution panel its usually either a flat blade screwdriver or hex bolt connections that are easy to see, readily accessible and easy to check and tighten on the Neutral Buss and Ground Buss and then each circuit breaker including the main. With power off and a driver and hex in hand you can check and tighten all of them in a manner of minutes piece of cake.

Next is at the DC Distribution panel where again its mostly a flat blade screwdriver that can be used to tighten all wiring connections.

The next obvious place is all the battery terminal/post connections and if there's any contamination it needs removed then wire brushed and cleaned and re tigthtned. Once all is clean n bright n shiny I use the felt looking washers under the terminals (have to cut n fit as intended for round posts only)  and once alls attached and tight I spray whats left exposed with that red battery terminal anti corrosive spray.

Of course, after all battery connections there's all the Inverter and Chargers and solar charge controllers and monitors etc etc ect to check and tighten. Also all the appliances need checked where they hard wire or plug into the distribution

As far as AC distribution its most important to check the high current branch circuits such as for the AC and Microwave and where hair dryers or curling irons or space heaters are plugged. If there are any junction boxes with wire nuts those are easy to check and tighten and look for evidence of heat or burns

Plugs and receptacles and such are usually molded so no place to check but you can look for evidence of overheating or burns and keep the male pins/blades on plugs bright n shiny.

There are more but this gets you started. Its not all that hard to maybe twice a year take a couple hours to check EVERY electrical connection.

NO I did not use nor did I instruct my electrical technicians, electricians or contractors to use lok tite but that don't mean it should or shouldn't be done, Im rusty and outdated, check with the NEC and professional electricians and engineers instead of what we may have to say. 

       John T