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Fuel tank sending units/dash gauge


Jeff.Sloan

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Curious if you guys have any ideas on an odd behavior I am seeing with my truck.  2004 VNL630, twin 150 gal tanks.  When driving the truck pulls fuel from the left tank at about double the rate as the right tank.  In addition, only the left tank has a fuel sending unit.  So my gas gauge always reads lower than my actual overall fuel level.  I'd like to fix this so that the gauge reads properly.  What's the best way to get an accurate fuel gauge?  Can I add a sending unit to the right side tank and wire them in parallel?  

Also, Should I care that fuel is not being drawn evenly from the tanks?  Any tips or tricks to solve these quirks would be appreciated.  

Pic of me filling up at Costco this morning for attention :-)

 

gas-costco.jpg

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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You should have some type of crossover hose system that equalizes your tanks as fuel is used.  If one tank is draining faster than the other, then something is likely wrong with your crossover hoses somewhere and should be fixed.  I am not as familiar with the Volvos, but on my Kenworth the hoses are easy to see and access.  I'd start pulling hoses and see if the one from the slow draining tank is clogged up.

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 You could take it apart and see if there is something stuck in the valve. Last winter I took mine apart at the small screws so as to rotate the end to tighten the pipe fitting thread.

 There is a 11/4"X1/16" oring that seals it.   Pay attention to it. There is a small spring inside with a small weird looking valve. If you take it apart make sure your on a smooth surface or lay something down to catch the parts. You could loose the parts.

the spring is really week so it should not fly very far. I now have two spare O'rings just for that part.

 

 This came about when I replaced the check valve at the cooling plate for the ecm. Once the check valve was replaced it started leaking fuel at the pipe fitting on the valve.

 Fitting did not leek fuel just let air inside.

 Real pita ,.         But now the truck starts as it should.

 

 Only 9 years of not the best starting N14 cummins 

 

Have fun hugging your truck,.  Vern

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Thanks guys!  We are right in the middle of relocating our manufacturing company, but as soon as things settle I want to get this sorted (as well as finish the split AC install, insulating the cab with closed cell foam, finishing the interior, and on and on and on hahaha).

Appreciate the tips very much!

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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Based on your symptoms, I would guess that, as mentioned above, it is due to fuel not being able to flow through the crossover line.

Your truck is probably pulling from both sides and the return line is only going to the right.  That would explain how you could start out equal but wind up with  an imbalance of fuel.

Look for a faucet like valve located close to one of your tanks, with a line that goes to the other tank.

John

Southern Nevada

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Irony of Ironies, 300 miles into day one of our two day haul, the fuel return T seal failed and started leaking diesel all over the bottom of the truck.  Cost a small fortune to get replaced on the side of the road (well dirt lot we spend the night in) but the truck is running well again.  Diesel was being thrown against the hot exhaust by the driveshaft, smelled REAL bad inside the cab while it was happening, thankfully nothing ignited! Guy at the nearest Volvo dealer where I got the part from said the fuel return tee is a common failure item as the older trucks get older.

The smell is still lingering a few hundred miles later, I'm guessing I need to replace the cabin filter and let the truck sit for a few days in the 110+F heat for the residue to evaporate off (We are in El Centro, CA now)

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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2 hours ago, Stan Wright said:

Do you have a part number?  I have a 2004 also.

Volvo 8173518 Splitter Valve.  Here it is on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-Truck-8173518-Splitter-Valve/dp/B002A8C1FC

I paid $64.20 at the Volvo dealer for it

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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You may want to get some simple green cleaner and crawl under the truck for a wash job. Spray it on and rinse off with water in fifteen minutes or so. Mix it 1/2 strength or so.

 It may help with the new smell of your truck. I have used it quite a few times to remove such products.

 

 Safe Travels,.  Vern

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One may want to think about any pressure washing under the truck. 

 

 Would not be fun to clean the smell .  Then have electrical problems from pressure washing. Such as abs or transmission problems.

 

 Just a thought,    Vern

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