Battery Prices

[Vegas Teacher]

When I bought my truck the person who sold it to me only had two batteries in it. He was to cheap to replace the old batteries that died on him. So I went and looked at battery prices. 133.00 at most stores for the correct replacement battery. Most of you read 1/2 on and 1/2 off posting. I went to the Volvo parts place - TEC equipment Las Vegas. I ordered my valve stem and cap to fix the air leak and while on the phone I asked them about price on a battery they told me 65.00 I said sold. I went down this afternoon and went to pick up my parts and when I was talking to the guy behind the desk I told him I wanted to buy a couple of those 65.00 950 CCA batteries he looked at me and said how would 55.00 suit you? On the table behind me sat two of the same batteries for 55.00 the same size batteries at Autozone and other places went for 120.00 plus. I got two for less than one. Plus a 20.00 core charge but the price was to good to turn down.

I also bought a mirror.

I have my Jackalopee, 100 feet of 10 gauge Red, Blue and Black wire, Junction box, 7 pin hitch connector, panel to mount it to, 30' of RV wire all kinds of heat shrink and wire connectors of all types, all of my drill batteries charges, wire cutters and crimpers / splicers and pliers and dykes. I have read my manuals. I think it is time to get my hands dirty.

I am making a tool box or parts box of stuff for the semi and one for the trailer.

I have taken the advice and I am using it.

Where is the best place to get air line to splice in should I have one blow out or get a hole in it.

What parts do I get to make this happen? Like what do I get to put in the air hose to clamp down with those fancy metal clamps that tighten with turning a screw? Is it like the stuff you use on a water hose, when it brakes?

I even have an extra serpentine belt, just in case.

ATV told me about a great new store I was going to go to today but the wife wanted Sushi so we did not make it over there. She also does not know I spent about 200.00 for parts but what she does not know won't hurt her LOL!

Later,

Vegas Teacher

P.S. only 10 days of school left! Not much after that and I am trying to have my truck ready to go for the WCR only 4 days after school gets out! Wish me luck! 

[MrSeas]

Hey what was the part number on the Schader valve you picked up at TEC?

Do you have a NAPA store near you?  They can order all kinds of parts for your truck. Sometimes the prices are very competitive. 

I buy lots of the different sizes of airline from them at a good price.  You might want to carry some 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch, and some larger 1/2 inch. you can also get some compression type air line fittings  in various sizes.  

 

 

[SuiteSuccess]

Corey,

I bought four batteries at the Peterbilt dealer last year for $76 apiece.  Always check with the dealers on batteries before auto parts stores.  They will often have some great prices.  Doesn't have to be just a Volvo dealer.

[Vegas Teacher]

1 hour ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Corey,

I bought four batteries at the Peterbilt dealer last year for $76 apiece.  Always check with the dealers on batteries before auto parts stores.  They will often have some great prices.  Doesn't have to be just a Volvo dealer.

That's interesting, I did not know that. I always figured the dealership would be super expensive like a car dealership. If I go to Toyota to buy something for my Tundra I pay through the nose. Everything about this truck is different for me..........

It is a whole new way of thinking but on the good side I am learning!

Later,

Cory O

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I happen to like a good, push to connect fitting over a compression fitting but make sure you have a straight, 90 degree and tee fittings for 1/4. 3/8 and 1/2 airline (or whatever sizes you have on your truck) plus about 10 feet or so of each size of airline. A good set of PVC airline cutters or a wire cable cutter (curved blade) will work to cut the larger airlines. If I am at home, the larger ones get cut on a table saw with a panel blade to get a smooth cut. I also try to keep an assortment of airline fittings with pipe threads on one side incase something needs to be replaced at a tank, bag or switch.

A good pair of vice grips will also pinch off a line to allow you to get off the road to a safer location at times. Try to find plugs for your lines as well. If you blow a bag or something else that can't be fixed quickly, you can add a airline connector and push in a plug fitting to stop the leak. Also look at getting a set of airline tools from someone like Lisle. They are worth their weight in gold when you need them.

I also keep spare lights, wire, fuses, terminals and tools for electrical fixes. a spare governor, fuel and oil filters. One weird spare that I always have is the silicon hose for the infeed/outfeed to the charge air cooler. If you ever blow one of those, you will not get anywhere very fast after losing your turbo boost.

On a used truck like several people have told you, go ahead and replace every rubber hose on the rig that has coolant in it. Radiator hoses, heater core hoses, etc. You do NOT want to blow a hose in a hot desert 200 miles from the nearest repair shop. While you are doing that, replace the thermostat as well.

These trucks will run forever but, like anything else, when you have a problem with something, fix it, don't Band-Aid it and shove it down the road some more. An easy fix can turn into an expensive fix in a hurry that way. There are a lot of other things you can carry but that will depend on the truck, engine, tranny and past experiences as well as your comfort level in finding and fixing problems.

From the sound of it, take the advice of another poster on here and concentrate on one area at a time. Get your air leaks fixed, then move to hoses, then to the next thing needing attention. By doing that, you will get very familiar with your truck and learn what it looks, sounds and feels like.

[Jack Mayer]

Depending on how old the two original batteries were, you are probably not doing the new batteries a favor. Batteries in a bank will tend to "pull down" to the weakest battery in the bank - over time. Generally, if you have to replace two batteries in a four battery bank you should be replacing them all.   Just food for thought. If the "original" batteries are less than a year old then I would not worry about it so much. But if they are an "unknown" then I'd seriously consider replacing them as well. 

[Vegas Teacher]

31 minutes ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

I happen to like a good, push to connect fitting over a compression fitting but make sure you have a straight, 90 degree and tee fittings for 1/4. 3/8 and 1/2 airline (or whatever sizes you have on your truck) plus about 10 feet or so of each size of airline. A good set of PVC airline cutters or a wire cable cutter (curved blade) will work to cut the larger airlines. If I am at home, the larger ones get cut on a table saw with a panel blade to get a smooth cut. I also try to keep an assortment of airline fittings with pipe threads on one side incase something needs to be replaced at a tank, bag or switch.

A good pair of vice grips will also pinch off a line to allow you to get off the road to a safer location at times. Try to find plugs for your lines as well. If you blow a bag or something else that can't be fixed quickly, you can add a airline connector and push in a plug fitting to stop the leak. Also look at getting a set of airline tools from someone like Lisle. They are worth their weight in gold when you need them.

I also keep spare lights, wire, fuses, terminals and tools for electrical fixes. a spare governor, fuel and oil filters. One weird spare that I always have is the silicon hose for the infeed/outfeed to the charge air cooler. If you ever blow one of those, you will not get anywhere very fast after losing your turbo boost.

On a used truck like several people have told you, go ahead and replace every rubber hose on the rig that has coolant in it. Radiator hoses, heater core hoses, etc. You do NOT want to blow a hose in a hot desert 200 miles from the nearest repair shop. While you are doing that, replace the thermostat as well.

These trucks will run forever but, like anything else, when you have a problem with something, fix it, don't Band-Aid it and shove it down the road some more. An easy fix can turn into an expensive fix in a hurry that way. There are a lot of other things you can carry but that will depend on the truck, engine, tranny and past experiences as well as your comfort level in finding and fixing problems.

From the sound of it, take the advice of another poster on here and concentrate on one area at a time. Get your air leaks fixed, then move to hoses, then to the next thing needing attention. By doing that, you will get very familiar with your truck and learn what it looks, sounds and feels like.

Little by little I am learning the last person who had this truck did not maintain it very well during the last 6 months he had it. Many little things could have been taken care of like putting on a 10.00 replacement side mirror or two extra batteries. I am 100% now into chasing down air leaks after my weekend adventure. Thanks for the advice on parts that I need and where to get them. As a teacher I am organized. I have a lesson plan and know for a month what I am doing each day. I am applying this same concept to the pre-trip inspection and tool box / spare parts box. I am going to strap them down to the stock platform behind the cab and between the gas tanks.

[rdickinson]

Don't they have an MFG date on them??

I had all 4 replaced before the last trip South, 2 were fine, 1 was 50% and the other was pretty much toast, so all 4 were replaced and mine were over 150$ each.  Some chimed in and told me I paid too much but I tied Canadian Tire and Allstate but either none were to be had or they were over 200$ each.

I'd do as Jack said, get another pair.

Did you not ask for service records or get it checked out before purchase?

 

[Vegas Teacher]

24 minutes ago, rdickinson said:

Don't they have an MFG date on them??

I had all 4 replaced before the last trip South, 2 were fine, 1 was 50% and the other was pretty much toast, so all 4 were replaced and mine were over 150$ each.  Some chimed in and told me I paid too much but I tied Canadian Tire and Allstate but either none were to be had or they were over 200$ each.

I'd do as Jack said, get another pair.

Did you not ask for service records or get it checked out before purchase?

 

I had the truck inspected by TEC in Tampa Bay Florida before I bought it, they caught some of the big stuff and I paid them to fix air leaks, kind of ironic now, but the fix all of the air leaks before I got on the road. Yes I am looking into two more batteries now, all new hoses, and adding a few more belts to the mix.

Just before I typed this I went into my counter and pulled out a 3 ring binder, we have a lot of these at teachers, I have printed off a couple of pre-trip check lists. I can't watch the videos now but I am going to when I get home.

[Vegas Teacher]

12 hours ago, MrSeas said:

Hey what was the part number on the Schader valve you picked up at TEC?

Do you have a NAPA store near you?  They can order all kinds of parts for your truck. Sometimes the prices are very competitive. 

I buy lots of the different sizes of airline from them at a good price.  You might want to carry some 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch, and some larger 1/2 inch. you can also get some compression type air line fittings  in various sizes.  

 

 

Part number V088749 Vavle 5.98

Part number V409874 Cap 9.82

 

[rickeieio]

4 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

From the sound of it, take the advice of another poster on here and concentrate on one area at a time. Get your air leaks fixed, then move to hoses, then to the next thing needing attention. By doing that, you will get very familiar with your truck and learn what it looks, sounds and feels like.

x2

[Sculptor]

20 hours ago, Vegas Teacher said:

P.S. only 10 days of school left! Not much after that and I am trying to have my truck ready to go for the WCR only 4 days after school gets out! Wish me luck! 

https://youtu.be/-Camgug6vlo

 

[RandyA]

We bought our Volvo in 2009.  Maintenance and replacement of aging parts are an ongoing process - it doesn't end.  I do have a HDT wrecking yard in our vicinity.  Awhile back I picked up 3' sections of 3/8" and 1/2" air line.  The owner gave them to me.  I did buy a 25' roll of nylon 1/4" air line from a Volvo shop.

Jack and others are 100% right on the batteries.  NEVER replace just part of a set.  Glad to hear you are getting the other two.  But, that said, if you are in a warmer climate and your engine starts easily you can do well with 2 or 3 group 31 750 CCA or 900 CCA batteries.  I would take the two older batteries out even before picking up the new ones.  That will also give you the needed cores.  When you do this closely examine the copper buss bars for erosion where they bolt to the batteries.  I found mine literally eaten away like they had been attacked by a copper eating termite colony.  You do not want buss bars that are like that - they go down hill fast as they cannot withstand the current draw and may also cause a voltage drop that can unbalance the battery pack.

You did not indicate the grade of #10 wire you bought.  On your truck it is worth the additional cost to buy marine grade "tinned" stranded wire.  Non-marine grade will eventually corrode and turn green or black creating a higher resistance in the wire leading to failure.  Also be careful as much of the higher gauge wire available that comes out of China is actually aluminum wire with a copper coating.  Stick to only American Wire Gauge (AWG) pure copper stranded wire.  I have seen wire from China advertised as 8 Gauge that is actually 12 AWG.  Some of the imported wire may also have an inferior jacket or insulation.  Again quality is important - be sure you have wire that is truly marine grade that has sunlight and water proof outer insulation.  Wire with an inferior outer insulation will dry out and crack when exposed to the elements encountered driving your truck.  Another check is the terminals you use to attach the wiring.  Not all are created equal.  Again, tinned copper is best.  Get a quality three point ratcheting crimping tool and avoid the two point tools.  On your larger gauge wires staring with #10 and going on up in size to #0 a hydraulic crimping tool is worth the investment.  Good old Harbor Freight has one with size selectable mandrels for about $60 that does a good job for occasional use.  I have one and have been pleased with its performance.  When using heat shrink buy only adhesive lined marine grade heat shrink.  The other stuff will not water proof a connection.  Don't apply heat with a match or torch.  Get a decent 120 volt, 900 watt/1500 watt hot air tool to do your shrinking.  Do it right the first time or you will soon have to do it over.  I ran a section of 1-1/2" PVC down the frame rails on my truck with a couple of T's inserted at 1/3 and 2/3 of the distance.  This will give support and protection for your wiring.  It will also make it easier later when you find a need to add another wire (and you will.)  The T's give you a point to branch wiring out along the run for lighting. Getting the wires down the PVC conduit is easily facilitated by having a roll of flexible fiberglass wire pulling material.  If you need photos of the stuff I have mentioned or an example for the source I will be glad to get them together for you.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

NAPA, if its a large store usually carries DOT rated air tubing in all the sizes needed- 1/4, 3/8, 1/2.  If they have the tubing the will also have to "Push-to-Connect" style fittings.

Eample-

https://www.fastenal.com/products/fleet-automotive/dot-fittings/dot-push-to-connect-fittings/eaton-weatherhead/_/Navigation;jsessionid=ntZ1J2yFbJndvFQ31l1hYG9vQ1ThzL11vjGpQh1JTNSShVy7yLMv!995278099!-1658684075?term=&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=&r=~|manufacturer:^"RUB INC."$|~ ~|sattr01:^1/4"$|~ ~|manufacturer:^"EATON WEATHERHEAD"$|~ ~|categoryl1:"609389 Fleet 9and Automotive"|~ ~|categoryl2:"609628 DOT Fittings"|~ ~|categoryl3:"612287 DOT Push-to-Connect Fittings"|

Maybe someone can post the link for the Napa discount card?

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Randy,

Had to laugh when you stated get marine grade tinned wire. The things that I had to wait on for my underbelly wiring project came in today. A 250' roll of Ancor 12 ga two wire marine cable (red/black tinned stranded copper wire) and 100 each of 10/12, 14/16 and 18/20 ga Ancor adhesive lined butt terminals. Already had some but wanted to make sure I had enough to also wire the lights in the truck boxes after they get Line-X'd. Already have a bunch of marine grade adhesive heat shrink. I use a large ratcheting crimper on the 10 ga and up but have that same little HF kit with dies to crimp the larger terminals.

Do it one time, do it right and you don't have to worry about it.

[Pete Kildow]

Almost always battery's are way cheaper at Peterbilt, Kenworth or Volvo . Parts places are and always have gotten away with Hwy robbery on parts and battery's.

Also as others have posted. Best on batter's to replace all at one time. A weak battery will cause  the others to have a shorter life span. Now if you were to have a bad batter to fail in a few months. Not as bad, but when you think one battery is good. And replace the others. Most times you will shorten the others.

[Jack Mayer]

Listen to what Randy (and Dave) have said. Wire it right, or wire it again....likely with Mr. Murphy involved on the roadside. Or some other convenient place. I also have the Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper. It won't do 4/0 but you should not care for your truck The 4/0 dies are not sized right. At least in mine. I guarantee you will have wire issues if you don't do it right....I made a good amount of money fixing other people's RV/electrical/solar issues when I was doing that. The stuff you see......

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Jack- Take the 4/0 dies and dremel/die-grinder them out to the correct size.  I used a 4/0 lug that had been machine crimped and adjusted the HF die to fit.  Works great.  I "Adjusted" several of the HF crimper dies to work properly.

[Jack Mayer]

4 minutes ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

Jack- Take the 4/0 dies and dremel/die-grinder them out to the correct size.  I used a 4/0 lug that had been machine crimped and adjusted the HF die to fit.  Works great.  I "Adjusted" several of the HF crimper dies to work properly.

Good idea. I have another crimper that is much larger that I use with the 4/0....but "fixing" the HF would allow me to sell the "big" crimer. Which I'll do. Now that I'm "moving" into this new truck I'm reorganizing things and TRYING to get rid of some tools

[ALLOY]

Use a tool that is made for insulated connectors. A tool made for bare (no heat shrink) will cut the heat shrink

http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/703010

If allot of butt connectors need to be done

http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/703030

#4-4/0 crimping tool ...no dies to change.

http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/702040

Manufactures of tinning wire...Ancor Marine , Almo and Vertex Marine....all come out of the same factory in the USA

http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/products/wire-and-cable

https://www.almo.com/

http://www.vertex-marine.com/

The #5 butane torch (faster) listed here with the vent open for a gentle flame.

http://wonderfulengineering.com/10-best-butane-torches-that-will-never-let-you-down/

To prevent corrosion and make maintenance easy.....20cc syringes of  Tef-Gel. ***Don't use this on electronics***   also works on  any bolts that will need to come apart in the future.

http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_price

For electronics

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2852/.f

[Vegas Teacher]

13 hours ago, RandyA said:

We bought our Volvo in 2009.  Maintenance and replacement of aging parts are an ongoing process - it doesn't end.  I do have a HDT wrecking yard in our vicinity.  Awhile back I picked up 3' sections of 3/8" and 1/2" air line.  The owner gave them to me.  I did buy a 25' roll of nylon 1/4" air line from a Volvo shop.

Jack and others are 100% right on the batteries.  NEVER replace just part of a set.  Glad to hear you are getting the other two.  But, that said, if you are in a warmer climate and your engine starts easily you can do well with 2 or 3 group 31 750 CCA or 900 CCA batteries.  I would take the two older batteries out even before picking up the new ones.  That will also give you the needed cores.  When you do this closely examine the copper buss bars for erosion where they bolt to the batteries.  I found mine literally eaten away like they had been attacked by a copper eating termite colony.  You do not want buss bars that are like that - they go down hill fast as they cannot withstand the current draw and may also cause a voltage drop that can unbalance the battery pack.

You did not indicate the grade of #10 wire you bought.  On your truck it is worth the additional cost to buy marine grade "tinned" stranded wire.  Non-marine grade will eventually corrode and turn green or black creating a higher resistance in the wire leading to failure.  Also be careful as much of the higher gauge wire available that comes out of China is actually aluminum wire with a copper coating.  Stick to only American Wire Gauge (AWG) pure copper stranded wire.  I have seen wire from China advertised as 8 Gauge that is actually 12 AWG.  Some of the imported wire may also have an inferior jacket or insulation.  Again quality is important - be sure you have wire that is truly marine grade that has sunlight and water proof outer insulation.  Wire with an inferior outer insulation will dry out and crack when exposed to the elements encountered driving your truck.  Another check is the terminals you use to attach the wiring.  Not all are created equal.  Again, tinned copper is best.  Get a quality three point ratcheting crimping tool and avoid the two point tools.  On your larger gauge wires staring with #10 and going on up in size to #0 a hydraulic crimping tool is worth the investment.  Good old Harbor Freight has one with size selectable mandrels for about $60 that does a good job for occasional use.  I have one and have been pleased with its performance.  When using heat shrink buy only adhesive lined marine grade heat shrink.  The other stuff will not water proof a connection.  Don't apply heat with a match or torch.  Get a decent 120 volt, 900 watt/1500 watt hot air tool to do your shrinking.  Do it right the first time or you will soon have to do it over.  I ran a section of 1-1/2" PVC down the frame rails on my truck with a couple of T's inserted at 1/3 and 2/3 of the distance.  This will give support and protection for your wiring.  It will also make it easier later when you find a need to add another wire (and you will.)  The T's give you a point to branch wiring out along the run for lighting. Getting the wires down the PVC conduit is easily facilitated by having a roll of flexible fiberglass wire pulling material.  If you need photos of the stuff I have mentioned or an example for the source I will be glad to get them together for you.

Thanks, I am adding these items to my purchase list. I love it. I am really starting to understand now, I appreciate the advice from everybody.

[ALLOY]

.....these are like sliced bread

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6

....folded in half and fed through one or both sides of these...

https://picocanada.com/en/view_product/7083-0

 

....never had any luck with these mounts sticking

https://picocanada.com/en/view_product/7085

 

 

 

[alan0043]

15 hours ago, RandyA said:

We bought our Volvo in 2009.  Maintenance and replacement of aging parts are an ongoing process - it doesn't end.  I do have a HDT wrecking yard in our vicinity.  Awhile back I picked up 3' sections of 3/8" and 1/2" air line.  The owner gave them to me.  I did buy a 25' roll of nylon 1/4" air line from a Volvo shop.

Jack and others are 100% right on the batteries.  NEVER replace just part of a set.  Glad to hear you are getting the other two.  But, that said, if you are in a warmer climate and your engine starts easily you can do well with 2 or 3 group 31 750 CCA or 900 CCA batteries.  I would take the two older batteries out even before picking up the new ones.  That will also give you the needed cores.  When you do this closely examine the copper buss bars for erosion where they bolt to the batteries.  I found mine literally eaten away like they had been attacked by a copper eating termite colony.  You do not want buss bars that are like that - they go down hill fast as they cannot withstand the current draw and may also cause a voltage drop that can unbalance the battery pack.

You did not indicate the grade of #10 wire you bought.  On your truck it is worth the additional cost to buy marine grade "tinned" stranded wire.  Non-marine grade will eventually corrode and turn green or black creating a higher resistance in the wire leading to failure.  Also be careful as much of the higher gauge wire available that comes out of China is actually aluminum wire with a copper coating.  Stick to only American Wire Gauge (AWG) pure copper stranded wire.  I have seen wire from China advertised as 8 Gauge that is actually 12 AWG.  Some of the imported wire may also have an inferior jacket or insulation.  Again quality is important - be sure you have wire that is truly marine grade that has sunlight and water proof outer insulation.  Wire with an inferior outer insulation will dry out and crack when exposed to the elements encountered driving your truck.  Another check is the terminals you use to attach the wiring.  Not all are created equal.  Again, tinned copper is best.  Get a quality three point ratcheting crimping tool and avoid the two point tools.  On your larger gauge wires staring with #10 and going on up in size to #0 a hydraulic crimping tool is worth the investment.  Good old Harbor Freight has one with size selectable mandrels for about $60 that does a good job for occasional use.  I have one and have been pleased with its performance.  When using heat shrink buy only adhesive lined marine grade heat shrink.  The other stuff will not water proof a connection.  Don't apply heat with a match or torch.  Get a decent 120 volt, 900 watt/1500 watt hot air tool to do your shrinking.  Do it right the first time or you will soon have to do it over.  I ran a section of 1-1/2" PVC down the frame rails on my truck with a couple of T's inserted at 1/3 and 2/3 of the distance.  This will give support and protection for your wiring.  It will also make it easier later when you find a need to add another wire (and you will.)  The T's give you a point to branch wiring out along the run for lighting. Getting the wires down the PVC conduit is easily facilitated by having a roll of flexible fiberglass wire pulling material.  If you need photos of the stuff I have mentioned or an example for the source I will be glad to get them together for you.

Hi Corey,

2X with what Randy has said. You will not go wrong following his advice. Do not get your wire from the big box stories. The marine grade wire works the best and also has more flex to it.

Hope to see some pictures of your projects at a later date,
Al

[Pete Kildow]

Glad the issue of cheap wire came up. I have 7 100 ft rolls of wire. Picked it up to run my trailer lights on a gooseneck and dump trailer. Will for sure check it. As I got it at a nice price. Was not cheap, but will make sure its worth using . Would hate to spend all that time. To only find out the wire was junk.

Pete

[Heavymetal]

Coming from the boating world to the RV world I will also recommend Lanolin (lambs fat) for your electrical fittings, connectors and such. It's all we every used to keep moisture and corrosion from exterior connections. It is sometimes hard to find but at a store but you can get it online pretty easy. You want the thick cream it's like Vaseline but non petroleum.  It also works great on battery terminals. lanolin is non-staining, non-corrosive, non-static and non-conductive, but does not effect the current flow when used in any electrical or electronic switches, plugs, circuits, fittings, parts or equipment.