RodeoRig Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 NEW here but not new to HDT, Im on my second converted HDT for hauling our 12,000lb dry weight horse trailer/rodeo rig. My previous HDT was a 2001 FL 120/ C12 430hp/ super 10/ 4.55 gears/ 11R24.5 rubber, I singled long. Pulled great but was hard on mpg and ran at top end of RPM's and ride was rough on my trailer and caused allot of stress cracks in frame. My current HDT is a 2001 Peterbilt 387/ C12 430hp/15 spd with deep reduction .79 final drive/ 3.36 gears/ 11R22.5 rubber, left tandem. Just basically got it road ready and have hauled once with it, Installed a deck, removed fifth wheel hitch and installed a air cushioned gooseneck hitch for my trailer. Ride is substantially better so far ( different trailer 15,000 lbs dry weight, roughly 20,000 loaded). Looking for some info on a few topics, think I will leave tandem on this one but tires are getting to the point of needing new ones. Considering super singles? or new wheels and running single tandem wheel 22.5's with centered hubs?? Anyone ever done? Also thoughts about buying 1 set of (4) new drives for rear axle and leaving the worn tires on middle axle? wondering about tire psi?? I'm probably over thinking this but trying to get the best ride possible for my trailer and horses, While maintaining mpg best I can. What about lowering air ride psi?? Sorry for the essay just trying to cover all bases here, any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Im sure I will have 10 more questions soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'mdonewiththis forum Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 I am not going to try to tell you what you should do for tires, but I can tell you that you can drop the pressure quite a ways in the drives and still be over inflated for the weight and the suspension should have a leveling valve that would regulate the pressure in the bags to keep the frame at a set height. That also helps keep the drive line angles where they need to be so you don't trash the U-joints or experience a vibration. Another thing you can do to improve the ride is put a real heavy bed on so that the air springs will have something to work with. I know that sounds goofy, but to get the best ride out of the bags they need some weight to make them compress on bumps and absorb the jarring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeoRig Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 First off thanks for responding! Secondly yes it has a levelling valve and I don't really want to mess with the bags was more curious if others have and what they may have learned. On my previous set up being singled I ran 80psi in my drives and that helped from the 105psi previous so I think I will do that again. I have to talk to the tire guy yet about tires that would best match my load weights and so on. I did install a HD steel deck with wood decking (in time will remove and put on steel plating) also run with a 100 gal water tanks on deck, generator and some small square hay bales. Trying to put more weight on truck then all into trailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 The air ride doesn't work off PSI--it works off the leveling valve. Obviously a unloaded truck has way less pressure in the air bags then a fully loaded one, to maintain the same frame height. Lower tire pressure has been done--follow MFG guidelines for proper inflation/load--but the tires are typically stiff enough the light loads we carry are not going to help ride a lot (and the recommended pressures usually don't go that low!) Some recommend softer shocks, if you can find them. Not sure singles or singling will help ride much either...some others may comment. Edit: sounds like you are already running at realistic pressures (80) and have some weight...you are on the right track! No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'mdonewiththis forum Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Sounds like you are doing the right things. Do you know what your axle weights are? That would help in determining your tire and pressure choices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exile Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 I like the idea of centered hubs and single standard width tires, havent seen anyone using those hubs. Be interested to see if you can find them. There has been lots of discussions here about removing the inner wheels, but the detractors say it can overstress the bearings. Your proposal would eliminate that issue. might want to consider upgrades to the cab air bag system, there are devices designed to reduce cab sway. Dont know if they help overall ride quality. 98 379 with 12.7 DD LG Dodge w/5.9 CTD Chrome habit I’m trying to kick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeoRig Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 In cab ride is perfect I'm more concerned about my trailer ride with this one, I believe I've done everything I can to prevent the jarring with this set up over my last. I guess time will tell.....The roads up here are poor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 4 minutes ago, RodeoRig said: In cab ride is perfect I'm more concerned about my trailer ride with this one, I believe I've done everything I can to prevent the jarring with this set up over my last. I guess time will tell.....The roads up here are poor! Do you have an air hitch or just a goose neck Ball? Since you have already experienced trailer damage, I would do a search on air hitches. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeoRig Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 It's a different trailer now and yes I have a air ride gooseneck hitch. So far just looking in the mirror traveling the trailer is riding allot smoother than my previous set up did. Tried to upload pics but pic size to large I guess..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Use this site to upload pics: http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=2 KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 WIth the air hitch, and the cab riding nice, you should be good to go. When I switched from a rigid to air hitch on my 5r, it went from shaking the clothes off the hangers in the front closet, to a glass of lemonade I set on the floor and forgot, still sitting there unspilled 100 miles later. No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeoRig Posted April 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randyretired Posted April 29, 2017 Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 I am unable to figure the size of the air bag in the picture but it looks small. To obtain the best ride it is recommended to keep the operating pressure somewhere around 40 to maybe 70 psi. If more than that is needed a larger air bag or maybe a differ hitch might work better. At pressures above 70 psi the ride can be pretty stiff. Randy 2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeoRig Posted April 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 So far it seems to be working and I'm going by dealers recommendations of filling air bag till hitch is level under pin weight, with trailer loaded I have 25 psi in air bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted April 29, 2017 Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 See if you can find a model number on the air bag. Bags are designed for a specific weight and air pressure for an optimum ride. Or get the chart that the dealer has and "Play with the air pressures. Do you know what the pin weighs on the trailer? Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoDirectionHome Posted April 29, 2017 Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 Quote Bags are designed for a specific weight and air pressure While true, the Primary design parameter is the height range that the air bag is designed to operate within. Weight and pressure are secondary. "There are No Experts, Do the Math!" 2014 Freightliner Cascadia DD16 600hp 1850ft-lb 18spd 3.31 260"wb SpaceCraft S-470 SKP #131740 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Firestone air suspension design guide Here is some info on air suspension design. "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Kildow Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 You can go with this.Air ride hitch and they have a gooseneck piece Gooseneck Adapter that replaces the 5th wheel hitch. And then your on air for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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