Jack's new truck

[Larry Burkett]

Jack

Am I missing them, or are there no backup cameras on the truck.

[Jack Mayer]

28 minutes ago, Larry Burkett said:

Jack

Am I missing them, or are there no backup cameras on the truck.

Not yet, but there will be at least three. Hitch, drom and right side. I needed to get the truck out of the shop and tow my trailer back to CO. Had to get the campground open and going.....

[rpsinc]

Jack,

As a fabricator and a widget minded guy, I can certainly see the planning and effort put into that bed and into its integration into the truck.  I am currently back to work and have been putting my design efforts into making a service bed on a work truc as funtional as possible.  Climbing into and onto those things isnt as appealing as it was when I was in my 20-30s.  Put I know more know and do things like made steps with Eberhard big rig flip down steps to have access to the truck bed.  Also used an RV single step mounted below a front cabinet to pull out and provide access to the welder, mounted in the bed, behind the cab, but above the floor.  I also built a false floor, 5+" above the bed floor, to have a pull out drawer for things like bars, shovels, brooms etc.  So, doing what others have done and getting ready to start designing my HDT bed, which will have to wait until I change out my IH 4700 toter.

Great job and I esp like the use of aftermarket lights "frenched" into the bed back.  Nice detail. 

[JPL]

Jack   What a beautiful truck. Hope to see it in real life. Maybe next year at the ECR. Who knows. Great job!   Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

[Chad Heiser]

3 hours ago, Jack Mayer said:

I have a LOT of ideas on that, Chad, since I've owned such a truck. Ours was a daily driver 610 with a 182" wheelbase. We used it for three years as our only vehicle while fulltiming.  I'd LOVE to build a modern version of that truck.

Actually, just shortening up my existing bed would make for a pretty cool look. I don't know if the steps being ALL bedlined would be as appropriate on the shorter version. Maybe just the treads of the steps. But the rest should "translate over" intact. 

Here is my 610. It was a great truck. I owned it for 10 years, and put VERY little money into repairs. 

 

3 hours ago, Jack Mayer said:

For sure I would include a drom. And you could still carry a motorcycle.

You are talking my language with this style bed.  Of course you'd have to be willing to put one on my lowly T2000.    Being a CA resident and having no plans to leave anytime soon, I really want to keep my overall length under 65'.  With a 42'5" trailer, that means keeping the truck short.  Of course your straight down pin box will help with length issues too.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

14 hours ago, Jack Mayer said:

Yes it is a Viair compressor. It is plumbed into the wet tank. I also have output/input to the tanks from the quick connect air chuck you see in one of the pictures. The "intent" is to:

1) allow the Viair to keep the suspension up on an overnight boondock stop. That would allow you to drop your trailer legs for stability if you wanted, without the risk of hanging the truck from the trailer. I'll admit this is not something you would do with the Viair if it was the only use for it (or not something I'd do)

2) The Viair can supply air via the tanks without running the truck. Essentially using the truck tanks for storage.

3) You can fill the tanks with shop air - there is an "input" quick connect

4) you can use the tanks for output air via a separate quick connect. 

The lights in the steps are LED marker lights. Single function, mini-lights (3/4"). These are red, but they come in clear/red, clear/amber, red, amber. Available at 4 States and lots of other places. I know of no 3/4" multi-function lights. If anyone has seen those please let me know.

Jack,

Just curious why you would plumb in a Viair instead of using some other options. Seems like another system to watch and maintain when you already have truck air available.

For overnight stops, I added a Haldex slow response leveling valve with a dump valve to the air hitch. That way, I can just dump the air to the hitch and then drop the legs on the trailer. Even if the truck leaks down, it will not drop more than 4" and the hitch has 5" of travel.

I also added a charge valve that is plumbed to a "Y" connection at the intake on the air dryer. That charge valve has a quick connect for my shop air compressor but still runs the air thru the truck air dryer to keep everything nice and dry.

We also added two quick connects inside the tool box that are plumbed with 1/2" line from the auxiliary air tank to provide air for jacks, impact guns or anything else I need.

Is there some advantage I'm not seeing to having that compressor on the bed?

[Jack Mayer]

Dave, 

It is mostly an experiment. It allows charging air when not running the truck. Allows medium term storage of the truck without losing air. I'm not sure how valuable that is for long term storage without power though. I do have a solar panel on this truck for storage without power.  

Using the Viair without running the truck is nice, however, for causal tasks. I'm not sure it is any better than the compressor I have plumbed into my trailer, however. 

I like the way you plumbed the air on your truck and will likely change the way the Viair and shop air is done on this one. It is not satisfactory the way it is currently plumbed. Again - an experiment.

[Jack Mayer]

9 hours ago, Chad Heiser said:

 

You are talking my language with this style bed.  Of course you'd have to be willing to put one on my lowly T2000.    Being a CA resident and having no plans to leave anytime soon, I really want to keep my overall length under 65'.  With a 42'5" trailer, that means keeping the truck short.  Of course your straight down pin box will help with length issues too.

Your T2000 is not a "lowly" truck. I happen to think it is one of the best looking trucks on the market - along with the Pete 387. I came very close to buying a T2K back in the mid 2000's.

I think the modern taillight treatment would look super with the streamlined look of the T2. It would fit very well, IMO. Of course, it is all a matter of taste/preference, and "conventional" ovals can certainly be done.

[VegasFlyer]

6 hours ago, Jack Mayer said:

Your T2000 is not a "lowly" truck. I happen to think it is one of the best looking trucks on the market - along with the Pete 387. I came very close to buying a T2K back in the mid 2000's.

I think the modern taillight treatment would look super with the streamlined look of the T2. It would fit very well, IMO. Of course, it is all a matter of taste/preference, and "conventional" ovals can certainly be done.

I will Second Jacks motion regarding the T2000 / 387.....lol

Before buying our 780, the target of our search was a Peterbilt 387 with a 13-speed and an ISX engine.

I have owned 2 KW's and a Peterbilt and when it comes to overall build quality, you will be hard pressed to find any truck that is built better.

The points that swayed us into trying a Volvo, was the ergonomics and storage layout, along with integration and gizmo factor when you package a D13 with an I-Shift and integrated cruise control/engine brake, etc.

If I were selecting another commercial truck, honestly, it would probably be a Peterbilt 387 or the new KW.  This is not indicative of being  displeased with the Volvo, which I will say is an excellent choice for an RV Hauler.  It is more a case of the superior durability of the PACCAR platform, in commercial service.

[rdickinson]

What's the advantage of having storage compartments on the transom??  Pull them out on pullouts but still have to duck under the trailer if it's still hooked up and you are taller than me. 

I'd still go with them on the side and if I wanted to get zoomy add pantograph doors if hardware was available.

I'd also run the rear compartment all the way thru.  Something Herrin refused to do at the time.  It would mean a separate box mounted from underneath and bolted to the rear of each rear compartment. I would then put the ramps on edge in a telescoping or sliding track which deploy port or starboard...so to speak.

[noteven]

Jack I like the red speed "swishes" ... 

[Big5er]

1 hour ago, rdickinson said:

I'd also run the rear compartment all the way thru.  Something Herrin refused to do at the time.  It would mean a separate box mounted from underneath and bolted to the rear of each rear compartment. 

When did Larry refuse to do that? That is exactly what he did on my bed in 2010.

[rickeieio]

2 hours ago, rdickinson said:

What's the advantage of having storage compartments on the transom??  Pull them out on pullouts but still have to duck under the trailer if it's still hooked up and you are taller than me. 

I'd still go with them on the side and if I wanted to get zoomy add pantograph doors if hardware was available.

I'd also run the rear compartment all the way thru.  Something Herrin refused to do at the time.  It would mean a separate box mounted from underneath and bolted to the rear of each rear compartment. I would then put the ramps on edge in a telescoping or sliding track which deploy port or starboard...so to speak.

And that's why there are custom beds.  We all have different wants and priorities. And we all place different values on doors.drawers. etc.

[rdickinson]

3 hours ago, Big5er said:

When did Larry refuse to do that? That is exactly what he did on my bed in 2010.

On mine, he refused to do it.  An xtra 1k to do it had he wanted to.

It may have been yours I saw a pic of, hence the request..  Either you or Larry would have sent me.

I have even seen a generator on a slide in that location.  Something similar to what MH's have at the front.

[huch1212]

Great looking trruck & bed Jack.

 

[Jack Mayer]

17 hours ago, rdickinson said:

What's the advantage of having storage compartments on the transom??  Pull them out on pullouts but still have to duck under the trailer if it's still hooked up and you are taller than me. 

I'd still go with them on the side and if I wanted to get zoomy add pantograph doors if hardware was available.

I'd also run the rear compartment all the way thru.  Something Herrin refused to do at the time.  It would mean a separate box mounted from underneath and bolted to the rear of each rear compartment. I would then put the ramps on edge in a telescoping or sliding track which deploy port or starboard...so to speak.

Roger, 

My access to the truck while hooked up is maybe 5% of the time I access storage. You will also note that the lift-up doors in the tail would be difficult to access (they do not lift up all the way with the trailer attached). But in MY case I don't care. In the case of the "whale-tail" doors, as we have been calling them, I'd rather have the storage than not. And in the case of the drawers, they have access from the side, so you really are not stooping under the trailer except to pull the drawer out. That works fine for me, and in general use I'd rather not be kneeling down to access the interior/back of the cabinet, where you to only have a door. The slide eases that process some. 

That said, anyone that wanted just side doors and no steps, or rear doors and no slide, can have it that way. From a fabrication perspective they are not a big deal. 

As to the ramp storage, I can tell you that in use, this system is a home run. Get to the ramps easily from either side, and they slide with literally a small tug on the very slick "puck board" that we have in the floor of the compartments. Plus these compartments are much larger than "traditional" ramp compartments, so minimizing finger pinching and sliding issues. You need to try them out....And with the (up to) five compartments you can have storage slide-outs in the ones that you do not use for ramp storage. Those slideouts are not yet in my bed, but will be. 

[Darryl&Rita]

2 things our bed & Jack's have in common. Puck board (UHMW plastic) and the ability to access from either side. 

[rdickinson]

2 hours ago, Jack Mayer said:

Roger, 

My access to the truck while hooked up is maybe 5% of the time I access storage. You will also note that the lift-up doors in the tail would be difficult to access (they do not lift up all the way with the trailer attached). But in MY case I don't care. In the case of the "whale-tail" doors, as we have been calling them, I'd rather have the storage than not. And in the case of the drawers, they have access from the side, so you really are not stooping under the trailer except to pull the drawer out. That works fine for me, and in general use I'd rather not be kneeling down to access the interior/back of the cabinet, where you to only have a door. The slide eases that process some. 

That said, anyone that wanted just side doors and no steps, or rear doors and no slide, can have it that way. From a fabrication perspective they are not a big deal. 

As to the ramp storage, I can tell you that in use, this system is a home run. Get to the ramps easily from either side, and they slide with literally a small tug on the very slick "puck board" that we have in the floor of the compartments. Plus these compartments are much larger than "traditional" ramp compartments, so minimizing finger pinching and sliding issues. You need to try them out....And with the (up to) five compartments you can have storage slide-outs in the ones that you do not use for ramp storage. Those slideouts are not yet in my bed, but will be. 

Doors on the top rear of the deck are a mixed blessing for sure when hooked up unless the rig is dead straight.  I don't often unhook when on the road.

When I get posting figured out, I'll post pics of the foldout stairs out of the left rear compartment.  They work but the locker needs to be cleared out so they can be slid to the outside of the ruck so they can be deployed.  Stairs need to be at a right angle to thei present location.

My ramp compartment has strips of Teflonny stuff to aid in sliding out, also the pin I'm the hinge was shortened to minimum length to minimize interference with the sides.  My ramp compartment is a little wider than your predecessor to mine.  Also on the nose of the ramps I put a loop of aircraft cable with heatshrink to allow for pulling straight out.

The slideouts will work ok in your rig but not in mine.  In my case too much room would be lost because the inside width and ht is greater than the opening which has an overhang on all 4 sides.

The new 7.5 ot 8kw Onan will go in front of the rt side tank under the sleeper.

The extra storage Phil has between the 2 rear compartments will also be added on my next trip south.  Electrical Innovations in New Iberia will do the jobs.  They are a 1 stop shopping store for pretty much everything plus are a Volvo repair facility.

Your deck is certainly smart looking, but I'm happy with mine.  Maybe mine can be updated, tricked out a bit.

I'm trying to come up with a push and twist pin to hold ramps and chocks in place rather than the current bolts to speed up loading and unloading.

[Jack Mayer]

Roger, I use a Milwaukee M12 3/8 drive battery ratchet to put in/out bolts. Very fast and easy - holds the charge for a long time.  Actually, Daniele usually does that. 

I agree if you have slideouts you really have to frame for them so you do not lose space. Very hard to optimally add them later. We will see if I like them over time....but I think I will. I do so far. 

[rdickinson]

I put a ball valve  on the trailer supply line, 1/4" hose with an air ratchet. Pretty noisy.  Gotta make sure the bolts are in straight or more crossthreaded bolts.  Hence the search for push and twist pins to put the chocks and ramps on with.

Take the stupid out of it, so to speak.

In hindsight, I would liken it to a kitchen lower corner, do you put in a lazy susan or just have 2 fixed shelves??  2 fixed shelve can store more but not very convenient, a l S can't store as much but it is more convenient to spin the thing around until you can get at what you want.

[Pete Kildow]

On 5/14/2017 at 8:41 AM, Jack Mayer said:

 

The lights in the steps are LED marker lights. Single function, mini-lights (3/4"). These are red, but they come in clear/red, clear/amber, red, amber. Available at 4 States and lots of other places. I know of no 3/4" multi-function lights. If anyone has seen those please let me know.

Jack check out these. 3/4" RED MINI CLEARANCE AUXILIARY STOP & TURN LIGHT These may well be what you need.

On your first truck. What was the wheelbase on it? And how much room from the back of the cab to the 5th wheel on it? If we go that way, I plan on singling short. And use it for our daily driver while traveling.

Pete

 

PS Here's a link to both colors of these. 3/4 lights

[Jack Mayer]

12 hours ago, wild wolf products said:

On your first truck. What was the wheelbase on it? And how much room from the back of the cab to the 5th wheel on it? If we go that way, I plan on singling short. And use it for our daily driver while traveling.

On our Volvo 610 the wheelbase was 182". I have no recollection of the BOC to pin measure, but the hitch was predrilled to move between two positions. One more forward than the other. In the rearward position there was enough room for  motorcycle loader. 

Thanks for the light links.

[Pete Kildow]

On 5/20/2017 at 8:54 AM, Jack Mayer said:

On our Volvo 610 the wheelbase was 182". I have no recollection of the BOC to pin measure, but the hitch was predrilled to move between two positions. One more forward than the other. In the rearward position there was enough room for  motorcycle loader. 

Thanks for the light links.

Thanks for the wheelbase info. And hope the lights were what your hunting.

Pete

[Jack Mayer]

Here is the video series on the truck.

First

Second ....linked from end of first....click on the link on the screen.