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hot water tank flush


mrdfred

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Sounds like a good way of getting pretty wet, I just stick the end of my awning rod in there and leaving water turned on I run the rod around and everything comes floating out past the rod as I run it around on the bottom of the tank

 

Jim Spence

2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB

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I use a $5 "wand" that screws onto the end of a garden hose and stick it into the drain hole.  It's angled at the end so you can rotate it to flush around the tank inside.  I'd be a little concerned about a power washer even on a low setting.      Greg 

Greg & Judy Bahnmiller
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Both sold 2/19, settled in Foley, AL after 12 years on the road

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4 hours ago, Devilishjim said:

Sounds like a good way of getting pretty wet, I just stick the end of my awning rod in there and leaving water turned on I run the rod around and everything comes floating out past the rod as I run it around on the bottom of the tank

 

I do much the same . It seems to work just fine and doesn't cost much . ;)

Goes around , comes around .

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I made one similar to the one kirk shows before I knew I could buy one for about the price it took to make mine.  I am in areas with a lot of minerals a good part of most years. I am afraid to talk about it anymore if fear of jinxing myself. I do think it is a good idea to get a nylon or plastic drain plug in place of the metal one. In my old rig which was 20 years old it was stuck and I had some problem getting it out with a drill and a chisel without boogering up the threads.

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7 hours ago, bigjim said:

I do think it is a good idea to get a nylon or plastic drain plug in place of the metal one.

That is a good thing if you have an Atwood water heater which doesn't require the use of an anode, but I have never seen one of them which included an anode and I don't think that it would work to prevent galvanic corrosion it the plug was non-conducting? BarbOK probably knows for sure on that. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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On 4/10/2017 at 6:45 AM, Kirk Wood said:
7 hours ago, bigjim said:

I do think it is a good idea to get a nylon or plastic drain plug in place of the metal one.

Funny ... I replaced the plastic plug with a galvanized version . The plastic plug was hard to remove . 

We have an Atwood water heater . 

Goes around , comes around .

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8 hours ago, bigjim said:

I made one similar to the one kirk shows before I knew I could buy one for about the price it took to make mine.  I am in areas with a lot of minerals a good part of most years. I am afraid to talk about it anymore if fear of jinxing myself. I do think it is a good idea to get a nylon or plastic drain plug in place of the metal one. In my old rig which was 20 years old it was stuck and I had some problem getting it out with a drill and a chisel without boogering up the threads.

How would a brass plug work.. Mine is also the anode rod but I use teflon tape and a socket,

 

Jim Spence

2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB

BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans

34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch

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23 minutes ago, Pat & Pete said:

We have an Atwood water heater . 

That is not a good idea for an Atwood but if you want metal, go with a brass one as the iron will eventually bond to the aluminum threads of the drain and become impossible to remove. You can find PVC plugs to fit and usually brass ones at home centers like Lowe's. Atwood used to sell brass plugs but I haven't seen them for some time They do sell the plastic ones in two packs for less than they used to charge for one brass one. 

 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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11 minutes ago, Devilishjim said:

Mine is also the anode rod but I use teflon tape and a socket,

 

 

It would not work for an anode and that is why you don't see them for Suburban water heaters and it is also the reason that the Suburban water heater drain plug is 1 1/16" while the Atwood is 1/2" so that you can't interchange them. The Suburban uses a steel tank while Atwood uses an aluminum one. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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1 minute ago, Kirk Wood said:

That is not a good idea for an Atwood but if you want metal, go with a brass one as the iron will eventually bond to the aluminum threads of the drain and become impossible to remove. You can find PVC plugs to fit and usually brass ones at home centers like Lowe's. Atwood used to sell brass plugs but I haven't seen them for some time They do sell the plastic ones in two packs for less than they used to charge for one brass one. 

I'm aware of that^ . It's why i use a healthy amount of thread tape on the plug . That  and the fact that I flush the tank at least twice a year , giving me a chance to inspect the plug on a fairly regular basis . I installed the galvanized plug about 6 years ago and have not had a problem . Hopefully that will continue , but if not , there'a always a brass plug , laying in a bin , in some hardware store , somewhere . ;) 

Goes around , comes around .

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5 hours ago, Pat & Pete said:

Funny ... I replaced the plastic plug with a galvanized version . The plastic plug was had to remove . 

We have an Atwood water heater . 

I would suggest you go back to the original Atwood plug.  Suburban tanks NEED a sacrificial anode because it has a steel interior, Atwood does not, rather uses aluminum.  You can damage the Atwood tank by using a sacrificial anode in it, and it may void the warranty on the tank.  

Barb & Dave O'Keeffe
2002 Alpine 36 MDDS (Figment II), 2018 Ford C-Max HYBRID
Blog: http://www.barbanddave.net
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3 hours ago, Barbaraok said:

I would suggest you go back to the original Atwood plug.  Suburban tanks NEED a sacrificial anode because it has a steel interior, Atwood does not, rather uses aluminum.  You can damage the Atwood tank by using a sacrificial anode in it, and it may void the warranty on the tank.  

Read a little closer ... I'm only using a plug . Nothing about an anode rode . But , thanks anyway . ;)

Goes around , comes around .

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Your putting different metals contact with warm water around.  If the water is high in dissolved solids you may do damage to the lining of the tank.   I'd go with the plastic, but that's just me.

Barb & Dave O'Keeffe
2002 Alpine 36 MDDS (Figment II), 2018 Ford C-Max HYBRID
Blog: http://www.barbanddave.net
SPK# 90761 FMCA #F337834

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14 hours ago, Pat & Pete said:

Funny ... I replaced the plastic plug with a galvanized version . The plastic plug was had to remove . 

We have an Atwood water heater . 

The reason for using a plastic/nylon pipe plug is to prevent galvanic action from corroding the aluminum tank.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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How to clean Atwood water heaters.

After draining the tank, because of the placement of the Drain Plug, approximately two quarts of water will remain
in the tank. This water contains most of the harmful corrosive particles.

To remove these harmful corrosive particles flush the tank with either air or water. Whether using air or water pressure, it may be applied through the inlet or outlet on the rear of the tank or the Pressure Temperature Relief Valve.
(If using the Pressure Temperature Relief Valve the Support Flange must be removed). The pressure will force out the
remaining water and the corrosive particles.


If you use water pressure, pump fresh water into the tank with the assistance of the on-board pump or use external
water for 90 seconds to allow the fresh water to agitate the stagnant water on the bottom of the tank and force
deposits through the drain opening. Continue adding water and draining until the particles have been cleared from the
water remaining in the tank.

Altering Atwood Water Heaters
If the water heater has been altered the warranty will be void
Use of Aftermarket Heating Element Devices (Hot Rods) can lead to an out of control heating of water in the tank and a catastrophic wet side explosion. These devices lack critical safety controls. Personal damage and product damage may result. Aftermarket heating element devices are not necessary with an Atwood Water Heater and will void the warranty.


Atwood water heater tanks are constructed of a high strength aluminum. The interior of the tank consists of a .0015 thickness of type 7072 aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the rolling process. This material protects the tanks from the effects of heavy metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined tank except it will last much longer. Aftermarket Anode Rods are not required and should not be used and will void warranty

I have had Atwood water heaters. And have been using a after market Hott Rod electric heater in one for over 20 +  years. That was one of the first things I done when I bought present MH 15 years ago.
I did have to replace one heater after it was 16 years old because of a water leak.

 

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8 minutes ago, Biker56 said:

How to clean Atwood water heaters.

After draining the tank, because of the placement of the Drain Plug, approximately two quarts of water will remain
in the tank. This water contains most of the harmful corrosive particles.

To remove these harmful corrosive particles flush the tank with either air or water. Whether using air or water pressure, it may be applied through the inlet or outlet on the rear of the tank or the Pressure Temperature Relief Valve.
(If using the Pressure Temperature Relief Valve the Support Flange must be removed). The pressure will force out the
remaining water and the corrosive particles.


If you use water pressure, pump fresh water into the tank with the assistance of the on-board pump or use external
water for 90 seconds to allow the fresh water to agitate the stagnant water on the bottom of the tank and force
deposits through the drain opening. Continue adding water and draining until the particles have been cleared from the
water remaining in the tank.

Altering Atwood Water Heaters
If the water heater has been altered the warranty will be void
Use of Aftermarket Heating Element Devices (Hot Rods) can lead to an out of control heating of water in the tank and a catastrophic wet side explosion. These devices lack critical safety controls. Personal damage and product damage may result. Aftermarket heating element devices are not necessary with an Atwood Water Heater and will void the warranty.


Atwood water heater tanks are constructed of a high strength aluminum. The interior of the tank consists of a .0015 thickness of type 7072 aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the rolling process. This material protects the tanks from the effects of heavy metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined tank except it will last much longer. Aftermarket Anode Rods are not required and should not be used and will void warranty
 

Thanks for posting this information Biker.

 

Mike

2016 Heartland Landmark Newport 365 w/MoRryde IS and 8k PSI disc brakes

RAM 3500 DRW 4.1

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On 4/10/2017 at 6:58 AM, Pat & Pete said:

Funny ... I replaced the plastic plug with a galvanized version . The plastic plug was had to remove . 

We have an Atwood water heater . 

I have numbness issues with my hands which make using any wrench in tight spaces difficult, but this saved the day when removing my Atwood plastic plug (I got mine cheaper at Home Depot)  https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-14138-8-Inch-Shallow-6-Point/dp/B000NPULC4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491913804&sr=8-4&keywords=7%2F8+socket

Jeff and Suzanne with Scout and Sydney, the Cocker Spaniel Sisters touring in Fawkes the 2012 Phoenix Cruiser 2400 Sprinter

 

"What happens in Vagueness, stays in Vagueness"

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8 minutes ago, Jeff & Suzanne said:

this saved the day when removing my Atwood plastic plug

TEKTON 14138 3/8-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch Shallow Socket, Cr-V, 6-Point

That is a very good tool to have. You do not want to dig the remains of a stripped out plug out of the tank, as I once had to do. After that experience, I too got the proper tool and I also went to replacing the plug with a new one annually when I would drain & flush the water heater. Thanks for the link!

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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11 hours ago, Barbaraok said:

Your putting different metals contact with warm water around.  If the water is high in dissolved solids you may do damage to the lining of the tank.   I'd go with the plastic, but that's just me.

I see what you're saying .

 

10 hours ago, Barbaraok said:

Ray,  I have come to the conclusion that some people are destined to go their own way, and hopefully nothing bad happens. B)

Hopefully it hasn't taken you this long for you to realize that^ .  Not that that's a bad thing .;)

Folks going their own way is why we are as advanced as we are , if we can call what we are advanced . :D

Goes around , comes around .

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