holding tank treatment

[trusy]

I'm wondering if the septic tank treatment (Rid-X for example) would  work for the long term storage of the RV..seems that it would help with the sensors...or does it do damage?

[Barbaraok]

We store empty.  Why would you want to store full?

[Jimalberta]

I agree with Barb....dump the tank and store it. We never use chemicals....just water.

[sandsys]

But do put some RV anti-freeze in your tanks if there's any possibility of freezing. You NEVER want to learn you didn't succeed in completely draining something.

Linda Sand

[Barbaraok]

A small amount of water left in an empty tank isn't going to expand enough to burst the tank.  Lines burst because there is limited volume for ice to expand, but an empty tank has plenty of room, just like ice cube trays don't burst when the water in them freshes.  

[Kirk W]

Many people, including myself, have tried Rid-Ex as a tank additive for use when the tanks are in use and report varying degrees of support for it. I have never heard of anyone trying it to add into a tank filled with water for storage and I agree with the others in this thread that I would never store my RV with full waste tanks. Even if the RV is stored in a location where it never freezes, a full tank would have potential problems when left sitting. I would suggest that the tank should be flushed out well and stored empty. 

[Fulltimer51]

22 hours ago, trusy said:

I'm wondering if the septic tank treatment (Rid-X for example) would  work for the long term storage of the RV..seems that it would help with the sensors...or does it do damage?

Full?

[trusy]

I posted this yesterday and didn't give the whole story ..I have emptied the holding tank and when rinsing it out, the water doesn't come back, thus, and I will be indelicate here, I assume that poop or toilet paper is plugging the opening.  Thus, my reason for wondering about the septic tank treatment to dissolve the residue/obstruction.

thank you

[57becky]

Sounds like you at least need to get a fitting to add to your drain line that you connect a water hose to and force water backwards toward the tank so you can dislodge whatever is blocking the drain, such as this  https://www.walmart.com/ip/44143432?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222222031918545&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10359660339&wl4=kwd-1105701512209&wl12=44143432_10000001205&wl14=RV sewer line back flush fitting&veh=sem

[Kirk W]

The cheap button type of indicators found in most RVs are very unreliable and they tend to keep enough residue for the current to flow and thus indicate some level, even when the tank is empty. A muct better way of cleaning the tank for that is by using some type of flushing wand or you can add a strong detergent to the tank with it about half full of water just before traveling and then dump as soon as stopped. I don't believe that Rid-Ex would help you at all, but haven't tried that.

Most of us with those cheesy indicators just learn to know about how long the tank lasts and stop trying to keep them working. If you must have level indicators that actually work, check out the See-Level indication system as it is the only reliable one for the long term that I know of. 

[Jimalberta]

Trusy what type of RV do you have? It seems odd that you could dump the black tank but then a flush of fresh water wont come out. Is it possible that you are flushing the grey and not the black? My MH has a hand valve so that I can flush either tank and I have made that mistake once.

[Ray,IN]

4 hours ago, trusy said:

I posted this yesterday and didn't give the whole story ..I have emptied the holding tank and when rinsing it out, the water doesn't come back, thus, and I will be indelicate here, I assume that poop or toilet paper is plugging the opening.  Thus, my reason for wondering about the septic tank treatment to dissolve the residue/obstruction.

thank you

IMO the best solution to your question is a manual tank flushing wand. I made my own because of distance from tank bottom to top of commode,3'. I bypass my water pressure regulator at home and use full city water line pressure = 100psi. when using my homemade wand.

This cleaned the tank completely and restored gauge readings. I only had to do this once, using plenty of flushing water + immediately after dumping I add about 10G water. This insures all solids are completely covered till it's time to dump again.

In fact, after I used my wand to remove any dried solids and paper, I noticed a leak. Close inspection revealed that the hardened paper had been sealing a split in the bottom of the tank. I had a plastic welder permanently repair the tank; which my extended service plan paid for in full.

As to additives, I use a universal solvent__ plenty of water.

Rid-X; I used to believe in using it until I discovered most of the dry powder is filler that does not dissolve.

[Kirk W]

8 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

immediately after dumping I add about 10G water.

While I add water also, the amount should depend upon the size of your waste tanks. My present small travel trailer only has a 25-gallon black tank so I put in about 3 - 5 gallons of water. On our previous RV, we had 40-gallon black tank so I did put in close to 10 gallons. 

[sandsys]

10 hours ago, Kirk Wood said:

While I add water also, the amount should depend upon the size of your waste tanks. My present small travel trailer only has a 25-gallon black tank so I put in about 3 - 5 gallons of water. On our previous RV, we had 40-gallon black tank so I did put in close to 10 gallons. 

This!

Linda Sand