Transformation

[VegasFlyer]

Do the lights have an internal circuitry to cut the power signal coming into the tail/brake side of the light, when voltage is applied to the reverse side?

[phoenix2013]

Perfect, no fabrication, even has the four holes.

[phoenix2013]

1 hour ago, VegasFlyer said:

Do the lights have an internal circuitry to cut the power signal coming into the tail/brake side of the light, when voltage is applied to the reverse side?

Apparently so.

[VegasFlyer]

On March 27, 2017 at 1:45 PM, phoenix2013 said:

No, you still hold the "top honors" for a pain in the ass installation (boot camp material).

An input socket (110 AC Volts) from the fifth mounted generator to the truck AC system (shore power).

Do you mind sharing who makes that input socket?

[Seniramsu]

9 hours ago, VegasFlyer said:

Do you mind sharing who makes that input socket?

It's made by Legrand. We found it at a Lowes but here is a link to it on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Seymour-PS15W47CCV3-Watertight-Connector-Construction/dp/B009VYC44Q?th=1

[Seniramsu]

When we hooked up the air supply to the ET, I opted to use the old air line that was used for supplying the 5th wheel slide with air.

For some reason, I wanted the ability to control the air to the hitch. Henry made me promise I wouldn't go down the road with it off while the trailer was connected. 

What I found out on the trip home was that the dash did not like that switch being on. Barked at me the entire time with the big STOP! Not wanting to find another air line and cut into it, decided to dive into the switch its self and figure out how it was telling the truck it was on. 

It's hard to see, but there was two wires coming off the top pin of the switch. They both were labeled differently. One was F63C1xxx and one was F63B1xxxx. Come to find out "C" fed the instrument panel to let it know the switch was on. I cut that line and now have no issues with leaving the switch on.

Just in case someone else down the road decided to go the same route.

 

[phoenix2013]

43 minutes ago, Seniramsu said:

It's made by Legrand. We found it at a Lowes but here is a link to it on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Seymour-PS15W47CCV3-Watertight-Connector-Construction/dp/B009VYC44Q?th=1

Lowes had both parts, male and female, not cheap but nice product. The attraction of it was that it's made from semi-rigid rubber and the male plug not only plugs in but also has a retention ring that when plugged in seals it and and helps it stay put (therefore purchase it as a pair).

The socket has a cover that keeps dirt out when not in use. We used a hole cutter (I have to double check the size) to mount it, on the socket there is the reduced area in the front and ridges behind it so it stay in once you push it through, we added a stainless steel clamp behind it to give it a "double security".

These are basically super duper extension cable connectors and will work well with flexible jacketed cable (such as SO), which is "the plan". 

[VegasFlyer]

21 minutes ago, phoenix2013 said:

Lowes had both parts, male and female, not cheap but nice product. The attraction of it was that it's made from semi-rigid rubber and the male plug not only plugs in but also has a retention ring that when plugged in seals it and and helps it stay put (therefore purchase it as a pair).

The socket has a cover that keeps dirt out when not in use. We used a hole cutter (I have to double check the size) to mount it, on the socket there is the reduced area in the front and ridges behind it so it stay in once you push it through, we added a stainless steel clamp behind it to give it a "double security".

These are basically super duper extension cable connectors and will work well with flexible jacketed cable (such as SO), which is "the plan". 

Great information, thanks guys!!

[VegasFlyer]

 

1 hour ago, Seniramsu said:

It's made by Legrand. We found it at a Lowes but here is a link to it on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Seymour-PS15W47CCV3-Watertight-Connector-Construction/dp/B009VYC44Q?th=1

 

25 minutes ago, phoenix2013 said:

Lowes had both parts, male and female, not cheap but nice product. The attraction of it was that it's made from semi-rigid rubber and the male plug not only plugs in but also has a retention ring that when plugged in seals it and and helps it stay put (therefore purchase it as a pair).

The socket has a cover that keeps dirt out when not in use. We used a hole cutter (I have to double check the size) to mount it, on the socket there is the reduced area in the front and ridges behind it so it stay in once you push it through, we added a stainless steel clamp behind it to give it a "double security".

These are basically super duper extension cable connectors and will work well with flexible jacketed cable (such as SO), which is "the plan". 

Great info, thanks guys for sharing!

That is a very clean professional build.....

[phoenix2013]

Little more info on the "process" and the evolution of the "transformation"

The oversize rear plate for the ET is a standard accessory to be used on ETs installed in trucks just running frame rails and fenders. It comes with three holes to mount standard round 4" lights, incandescent or LED. This is essential to make the truck legal again after the rear brace is removed to make room for the hitch. It is not necessary on trucks that will have a hauler body that will take care of legal requirements. As you can see more holes appeared on the plate as the result of the "upgrades".

On the left we have two holes for the air system and glad hands (more on that later), as you can see we needed to weld on a piece and expand the plate in that direction.

On the bottom on the left between the lights, hole for the RV plug, I have issues with it and more on that later.

Then AC plug we talked about it.

Then four tapped holes for the license plate, 10-32 tap in a 1/4" plate, that's fun.

And finally holes for the license plate light.

By now the plate wasn't as pristine as when originally painted, hence this.

Everything was timed to also do this.

This is when seniramsu was introduced to the olfactory abuse from the fine products by Sherwood Williams.

After doing the frame rails and since the hour was late I mentioned in jest that this portion of frame rails were looking great compared to the rest and he should consider repainting the rest. I don't think he found it amusing.

[alan0043]

2 hours ago, Seniramsu said:

When we hooked up the air supply to the ET, I opted to use the old air line that was used for supplying the 5th wheel slide with air.

For some reason, I wanted the ability to control the air to the hitch. Henry made me promise I wouldn't go down the road with it off while the trailer was connected. 

What I found out on the trip home was that the dash did not like that switch being on. Barked at me the entire time with the big STOP! Not wanting to find another air line and cut into it, decided to dive into the switch its self and figure out how it was telling the truck it was on. 

It's hard to see, but there was two wires coming off the top pin of the switch. They both were labeled differently. One was F63C1xxx and one was F63B1xxxx. Come to find out "C" fed the instrument panel to let it know the switch was on. I cut that line and now have no issues with leaving the switch on.

Just in case someone else down the road decided to go the same route.

 

Hi Seniramsu,

I have a question for you about this picture. I need to remove the same dash panels from my truck. I have looked at the panels in my truck and I think I have an idea how they come out. I just don't want to break any pieces off the panels. Can you tell me how you removed your panels ? Is there any tips that I should be aware of ? I know this is a rookie question. I can at times be a bull in a china shop. If a little pressure doesn't work, more pressure is better. This is how I break things.

Any help would be appreciated ,    Al

[Seniramsu]

15 minutes ago, alan0043 said:

Hi Seniramsu,

I have a question for you about this picture. I need to remove the same dash panels from my truck. I have looked at the panels in my truck and I think I have an idea how they come out. I just don't want to break any pieces off the panels. Can you tell me how you removed your panels ? Is there any tips that I should be aware of ? I know this is a rookie question. I can at times be a bull in a china shop. If a little pressure doesn't work, more pressure is better. This is how I break things.

Any help would be appreciated ,    Al

Hello Al,

I first had to open the fuse box (1) up on top of the dash, I then removed that piece just below the cup holder (2). You then have to work that piece of trim (3) out carefully. It's just in there with some tabs. Once that is out, you'll see all the screws to remove everything. Here's a pick that may/may not help:

I also went ahead and pulled out that pen holder that is next to the fuse box cover, it pops out just like the cover for the fuses and provides a little more insight as to what's under there. 

[alan0043]

1 hour ago, Seniramsu said:

Hello Al,

I first had to open the fuse box (1) up on top of the dash, I then removed that piece just below the cup holder (2). You then have to work that piece of trim (3) out carefully. It's just in there with some tabs. Once that is out, you'll see all the screws to remove everything. Here's a pick that may/may not help:

I also went ahead and pulled out that pen holder that is next to the fuse box cover, it pops out just like the cover for the fuses and provides a little more insight as to what's under there. 

Hi Seniramsu,

Thank for the help. The picture and the explanation are going to be a great help. You saved me from breaking something. My idea was wrong on how the panels came off. I never thought about the trim (#3) having to come off.

Thank you,   Al

[VegasFlyer]

Just remember to check behind where the slide out cup holder is located, there may be two Torx screws securing the fuse panel cover.

[alan0043]

18 hours ago, VegasFlyer said:

Just remember to check behind where the slide out cup holder is located, there may be two Torx screws securing the fuse panel cover.

Hi VegasFlyer,

Thank you for your help. I remembered about the two Torx screws. For some reason I could not get out the second panel that holds a total of 7 switches. I was still able to move a couple of switches from panel 1( holds 10 switches) to panel 2 without needing to remove panel 2. I am getting ready to install a monitor in panel 1 for a back-up camera.

Thank you again for your help,
Al

[Nuke-E]

#3 is the part to be careful with.  The tabs aren't the most robust, and it's a long skinny piece of plastic.

[SuiteSuccess]

3 minutes ago, Nuke-E said:

#3 is the part to be careful with.  The tabs aren't the most robust, and it's a long skinny piece of plastic.

Yep, be careful.  Start from the right side toward the passenger door and slowly work out.  The trim piece ends near the steering wheel with a plastic "hook" that will slide out.  If you start from the steering side you will break that hook off.

[HERO Maker]

On ‎3‎/‎28‎/‎2017 at 8:36 PM, phoenix2013 said:

I agree with Carl.  My 2001 has to come off starting at the passenger door.  Anywhere else and you have a chance at breaking something you don't really want to break.  Not sure all years are like this?