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I just put a deposit on a new 44' SpaceCraft trailer. Now I need help outfitting it. If you were custom building a new trailer, besides the obvious, what features would you list as "Must Have" and "Would be Nice" to have.

 

A few of the things I plan on are a 48 volt lithium battery system like David Dixon's (NukeE), Solar on the roof, one button leveling, and much more. Gail wants a large kitchen with residential appliances including a large real oven, 4 burner commercial grade stove, and a large refrigerator with ice maker.

 

So much to think about with so little time. I'm scheduled for a July delivery which means a May / June start time, which means I have to have the design finalized by sometime in April.

 

So back to the original question. What features would you have that I may have never thought of?

 

Steve & Gail

2000 Volvo VNL660 Autoshift Detroit 60 12.7 "Semi Crazy"

2016 smart "Lil Crazy"

2018 Space Craft 48' TT "The Nut House"

KJ4YGY & KK4CTE

 

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First off congrats on your new camper!!!!!!!!! I like having 2 awnings on the outside one for chairs and such and the other for a picnic table, plus acts as a window awning in case you have the hot afternoon sun.

2017 River Stone Legacy 38MB

2001 T2000 Kenworth

2009 Smart Passion

ET Junior hitch

 

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Air suspension.

 

Air brakes.

 

A heat recovery ventilator to control ventilation and indoor air quality.

 

High performance insulation and lots of it. Always cheaper in the long run that trying to mechanically heat in the cold or cool in hot weather.

 

Lots of water, grey and black tanks, heating fuel if you go cheap on insulation and windows.

 

Sounds like a great project make it fun...

 

radiant heating

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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Heated floors

I'm assuming the running gear is what SpaceCraft recommends for that size.

What we have done, is take a build list from Jack Mayer's last New Horizon and debate it. What was overkill for us or what was a yes. Whan the time comes for us to build ours, that's what I'm basing our on.

Alie & Jim + 8 paws

2017 DRV Memphis 

BART- 1998 Volvo 610

Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins

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Wine cellar...just a thought

Paul & Paula + Daisy the amazing wiggle worm dog...

2001 Volvo 770 Autoshift, Singled, w/ Aluminum Bed - Toy Draggin

2013 395AMP XLR Thunderbolt Toy Hauler

2013 Smart Passion

2012 CanAm Spyder RT

2013 Harley Davidson Street Glide

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Congratulations!

Just curious.... how are you going to pull it with the current hitch/ball setup and the drom box you recently added? Looks like you have some modifications to make to the HDT. What do you have in mind for it?

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Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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Are you making any, some, none changes to the tractor? Is this going to to be a commercial flat 5th wheel pin or RV style?

Jeff Beyer temporarily retired from Trailer Transit
2000 Freightliner Argosy Cabover
2008 Work and Play 34FK
Homebase NW Indiana, no longer full time

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Congratulations!

Just curious.... how are you going to pull it with the current hitch/ball setup and the drom box you recently added? Looks like you have some modifications to make to the HDT. What do you have in mind for it?

Still going to be "Bumper Pull" but built on a 5th wheel frame similar to what I have now. The kitchen will be in front elevated above basement storage. The bedroom will be in the rear, also elevated above basement storage. The whole unit will be built as tall as my truck, 13' 3". I currently have a 20,000lb hitch, and depending on the final weight rating of the SpaceCraft, I will probably have to upgrade to a 30,000lb hitch.

 

Steve & Gail

2000 Volvo VNL660 Autoshift Detroit 60 12.7 "Semi Crazy"

2016 smart "Lil Crazy"

2018 Space Craft 48' TT "The Nut House"

KJ4YGY & KK4CTE

 

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Steve, as we discussed at the Rally, I'll be happy to help you spec that out, and do the solar/electrical design, if you like. We can do this offline.

 

As for must have's in that rig I'd start with:

  • All residential high efficiency appliances. You can choose your favorite brand. There are some excellent "apt size" choices on the oven (gas). Or you can do a range with integrated oven. There are pros/cons to both approaches.
  • I'd do electric heated floors throughout, with wood or some other hard surface flooring.Use area rugs where desired. Brand of heating system can be discussed.
  • Id put in a Truma Aqua Go OEM continuous hot water heater plumbed for recirculation to the manifold, and then one loop on the shower. Plumb the kitchen direct from the heater, NOT through the manifold. That gives you hot fast in all the key locations and you still have a home-run for the kitchen...just not through the manifold. Should be a shorter run and hot water faster.
  • Whole house RO, but NOT the drinking water. Plumb the kitchen direct from the filter complex on shore water. That way you are drinking water that has minerals in it. You can use a Berkey filter if you want to process it more. I would. You can build the Berkey gravity water system into a cabinet if you want with a fill tap at it....that would be real custom.
  • Built in firearm storage. I won't discuss that here.
  • Basement AC and/or mini-split technology. The issues on a multi-head Mini should be worked out by your build time. No rooftop units.
  • Full solar system/battery bank, etc driving the entire coach, including the air conditioning. Separate design process David and I will help you with.
  • Fireplace (electric). Or, you might consider a nice little Dickinson Marine stove as a primary heat source. You could do various versions of it and make it a centerpiece in your living area. It wil certainly heat the rig. And not take up too much space. But you have to design around it. I'll likely put one in my next coach.
  • Propane storage. How about a rack of 20 lb bottles. Four, properly racked take no more space than two 40's. And sure are a lot easier to handle and refill. Depending on your stove/cooktop location you could even supply the stove with a single bottle...that way no lines going through the slides...less moving parts. Just depends on layout. We will go this route next time. I'd manifold them together, with two auto changeovers between bottle pairs. Turn one "bank" on at a time.
  • One RV furnace for backup heat. We rarely use ours. The heated floor and fireplace covers our needs down to the low 20's. If you had a Dickinson stove that would cover the rest. But you do want a backup, IMO.
  • The entire electrical system is a topic to itself. As you might imagine I have some specific requirements in that area. Starting with some arcane things like front and rear shore power input. Ethernet throughout the house, and a line that can run to the truck - requires plug input on both front of trailer and rear of truck. A separate input line to the trailer midship that allows augmentation of power. You can make this elaborate as you wish. To start, it feeds JUST a typical RV converter for charging your battery bank....but if you do the Dixon bank then that may not be required...
  • BluDot braking actuation. I'd do Morryde on that, but you might want to do something else. One option may be to do a commercial setup with air on 19.5's. You just have to figure the tradeoffs.
  • Water input on a reel.
  • Genset can be small or a portable with the electrical system David and I will provide you. You should have many KW of solar on your roof.
  • Consider 2" walls with foam. There are tradeoffs, but at least look at it. I'd foam the ceiling...you will get a lot more benefit from that than the walls. Marsha can do both.
  • Look at the Onyx shower systems. More money than the typical fiberglass Spacecraft uses, but custom to your needs, and better materials.
  • I'd use Quartz for the countertops. But Corian or the knockoffs are OK.

That is all for now...I have other work to do :)

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Congratulations on the new arrival!!! I could never approach Jack's well thought out list above.

 

Have you considered an alarm system? Perhaps an LED light bar display mounted near the entertainment center, the master suite, and the truck dash. The multicolored readout would be effective even in bright daylight at a short distance. It would have an audible tone also, in case you are in the wine cellar and miss the display. For a small fee the rig owner would purchase the required facial recognition sensors from WWW.ENVY-O-METER.COM so when driving or parked at your favorite Walmart you will always be aware of the envious eyes fondly caressing your new rig.

Kevin and June

2013 Volvo VNL 730    D13 Eco-Torque @ 425  Ratio 2.47 

2014 DRV 36TKSB3 

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Steve, as we discussed at the Rally, I'll be happy to help you spec that out, and do the solar/electrical design, if you like. We can do this offline.

 

As for must have's in that rig I'd start with:

  • All residential high efficiency appliances. You can choose your favorite brand. There are some excellent "apt size" choices on the oven (gas). Or you can do a range with integrated oven. There are pros/cons to both approaches.

Gail loves to cook, so I promised her a top of the line kitchen. No skimping on appliances.

  • I'd do electric heated floors throughout, with wood or some other hard surface flooring.Use area rugs where desired. Brand of heating system can be discussed.

I have sub-floor radiant heating throughout my house now, but done with hot water. I considered doing it in this unit as well. How does a hot water system compare to electric sub-floor heating?

  • Id put in a Truma Aqua Go OEM continuous hot water heater plumbed for recirculation to the manifold, and then one loop on the shower. Plumb the kitchen direct from the heater, NOT through the manifold. That gives you hot fast in all the key locations and you still have a home-run for the kitchen...just not through the manifold. Should be a shorter run and hot water faster.

I read your write up on that a few weeks ago. Sounds interesting.I'll probably do it.

  • Whole house RO, but NOT the drinking water. Plumb the kitchen direct from the filter complex on shore water. That way you are drinking water that has minerals in it. You can use a Berkey filter if you want to process it more. I would. You can build the Berkey gravity water system into a cabinet if you want with a fill tap at it....that would be real custom.

Many moons ago I had an RO system for a saltwater reef tank. As I recall, it required holding tank reservoirs, brine drain, and seemed to take a long time to to make an appreciable amount of water. What is the cost / benefit of the system as compares to something like a water softener system like I have now?

  • Built in firearm storage. I won't discuss that here.

Agreed. Later.

  • Basement AC and/or mini-split technology. The issues on a multi-head Mini should be worked out by your build time. No rooftop units.

I agree, no rooftop units. I was thinking 3 mini splits.

  • Full solar system/battery bank, etc driving the entire coach, including the air conditioning. Separate design process David and I will help you with.

A full solar array is planned as part of the 48 volt lithium system.

  • Fireplace (electric). Or, you might consider a nice little Dickinson Marine stove as a primary heat source. You could do various versions of it and make it a centerpiece in your living area. It wil certainly heat the rig. And not take up too much space. But you have to design around it. I'll likely put one in my next coach.

I have an electric FP in my current unit. I use it a lot more than I thought I would. Will do another in the new rig.

  • Propane storage. How about a rack of 20 lb bottles. Four, properly racked take no more space than two 40's. And sure are a lot easier to handle and refill. Depending on your stove/cooktop location you could even supply the stove with a single bottle...that way no lines going through the slides...less moving parts. Just depends on layout. We will go this route next time. I'd manifold them together, with two auto changeovers between bottle pairs. Turn one "bank" on at a time.

I have a 4/20lb system in my current rig and like it. Will probably do it again.

  • One RV furnace for backup heat. We rarely use ours. The heated floor and fireplace covers our needs down to the low 20's. If you had a Dickinson stove that would cover the rest. But you do want a backup, IMO.

I see the need for a backup heating system. Not sure I want the Dickinson stove, but there has got to be something more efficient than an RV furnace.

  • The entire electrical system is a topic to itself. As you might imagine I have some specific requirements in that area. Starting with some arcane things like front and rear shore power input. Ethernet throughout the house, and a line that can run to the truck - requires plug input on both front of trailer and rear of truck. A separate input line to the trailer midship that allows augmentation of power. You can make this elaborate as you wish. To start, it feeds JUST a typical RV converter for charging your battery bank....but if you do the Dixon bank then that may not be required...

Agreed, that is a whole long topic itself.

  • BluDot braking actuation. I'd do Morryde on that, but you might want to do something else. One option may be to do a commercial setup with air on 19.5's. You just have to figure the tradeoffs.

In the preliminary contract with SpaceCraft, specs are for air suspension. I still want to weigh my options on the suspension though. I do plan on BluDot.

  • Water input on a reel.

Electric as well.

  • Genset can be small or a portable with the electrical system David and I will provide you. You should have many KW of solar on your roof.

Genset will be built in. Question is should it be diesel, gas, or propane? I'm thinking diesel.

  • Consider 2" walls with foam. There are tradeoffs, but at least look at it. I'd foam the ceiling...you will get a lot more benefit from that than the walls. Marsha can do both.

Good insulation is a must. We don't necessarily follow the seasons.

  • Look at the Onyx shower systems. More money than the typical fiberglass Spacecraft uses, but custom to your needs, and better materials.

Not familiar with that. I'll look into it

  • I'd use Quartz for the countertops. But Corian or the knockoffs are OK.

Gail picks the counters she wants.

 

 

That is all for now...I have other work to do :)

 

Steve & Gail

2000 Volvo VNL660 Autoshift Detroit 60 12.7 "Semi Crazy"

2016 smart "Lil Crazy"

2018 Space Craft 48' TT "The Nut House"

KJ4YGY & KK4CTE

 

Volvo w SpaceCraft 1024.jpg

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Since I am spending your money, the sky deck is one of my favorites. http://www.stardeckrvs.com/skydeck/ Sitting, on the deck, in a remote area watching falling stars would be too cool.

 

Do you plan on spending a lot of time boon docking? If so, think about how you can live off of the grid for weeks at a time. Here are some thoughts:

 

Water tanks: As large as possible for white, grey and black water storage. Use the HDT for additional white water (built in would be good). Have a black water tank on the HDT, so you can drain your RV holding tanks, drive into town to dump. Have a macerator built into your RV so you can pump the holding tanks into the black water tank on your HDT.

 

Use grey water tank to flush your toilet. I always thought using fresh water to flush the toilet was a waste of precious white water supply.

 

Use solar panels and wind generator to keep your batteries charged. The wind generator has to be self furling, for when the winds are excessive. Or, my choice is that the generator could be lowered into a "roof pocket" for traveling and excessive wind speeds. Some people do not think that there is a need for wind. But, where I boon dock, the wind is always blowing, even during the night time, when solar is not charging.

 

Use LED strips for interior lighting. The strip lighting is soft and there are no annoying bright focal points. Multiple strips will allow you to go from bright to a very soft night light by turning all or just one on.

 

Use LED lighting outside and for serious illumination, use off road LED light bars, on all for sides of the RV.

 

Have LED lights, illuminating your RV wheels. This works great for backing at night.

 

If you are a hunter, have a rifle/shotgun safe welded into the frame of the RV. Make it large enough to store ammo, handguns, cameras, wallets, electronics etc.

 

Install a home security system (or at least have them run the camera wiring). An eight camera system is cheap and you will be able to see who is knocking at your door, record your trips. Some allow internet monitoring.

 

Thanks for letting me spend your money. I will try and think of more things. :D

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Use grey water tank to flush your toilet. I always thought using fresh water to flush the toilet was a waste of precious white water supply.

 

 

Makes perfect sense esp for boondocking. Having it set up with a valve for fresh or grey water give flexibility and the soap in the grey could be helpful in keeping the bowl clean.

Is anyone doing or done this??

Marcel

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Use grey water tank to flush your toilet. I always thought using fresh water to flush the toilet was a waste of precious white water supply.

 

 

Makes perfect sense esp for boondocking. Having it set up with a valve for fresh or grey water give flexibility and the soap in the grey could be helpful in keeping the bowl clean.

Is anyone doing or done this??

 

I made a system for mine. Posted the modification to modmyrv.com about 7 years ago. Still there, still working, still like it. Many other ways to accomplish this - most important concern is isolation so your potable water system has no chance of cross contamination from grey water.

300.JPG.c2a50e50210ede7534c4c440c7f9aa80.JPG

Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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I gave up on nesting all of the quote tags, so my comments are in blue.

  • All residential high efficiency appliances. You can choose your favorite brand. There are some excellent "apt size" choices on the oven (gas). Or you can do a range with integrated oven. There are pros/cons to both approaches.

Gail loves to cook, so I promised her a top of the line kitchen. No skimping on appliances.

Prepare to spend a bunch of time on AJMadison. They seemingly have just about everything under the sun. Plan for a full-size washing machine and LP or heat pump dryer--you get far better selection that way, and it isn't that much more space consumed.

  • I'd do electric heated floors throughout, with wood or some other hard surface flooring.Use area rugs where desired. Brand of heating system can be discussed.

I have sub-floor radiant heating throughout my house now, but done with hot water. I considered doing it in this unit as well. How does a hot water system compare to electric sub-floor heating?

If it wasn't too difficult, I'd go for a hot water system. It'll be heavier, but you could set it up for more than one energy source. If you go with a tankless water heater, I'd just size it big enough to heat the floors. You could still have a source of electrically-heated water if you wanted, and would be able to heat the floors when boondocking.

  • Id put in a Truma Aqua Go OEM continuous hot water heater plumbed for recirculation to the manifold, and then one loop on the shower. Plumb the kitchen direct from the heater, NOT through the manifold. That gives you hot fast in all the key locations and you still have a home-run for the kitchen...just not through the manifold. Should be a shorter run and hot water faster.

I read your write up on that a few weeks ago. Sounds interesting.I'll probably do it.

I'll put together a separate post on plumbing, but among my requirements are hot water priming, the ability to recirculate water in all the lines (there will inevitably be somewhere that would freeze in extreme cold otherwise), ability to fill tanks from city water hook-up AND run pump to maintain pressure to all fixtures during the process, and the check valve on the city water inlet located in heated space, not at the hose connection, so that you can fill in cold temperatures. I'd also put in at least a 2-gallon accumulator, and would consider a separate pump for laundry (and dishwasher).

  • Whole house RO, but NOT the drinking water. Plumb the kitchen direct from the filter complex on shore water. That way you are drinking water that has minerals in it. You can use a Berkey filter if you want to process it more. I would. You can build the Berkey gravity water system into a cabinet if you want with a fill tap at it....that would be real custom.

Many moons ago I had an RO system for a saltwater reef tank. As I recall, it required holding tank reservoirs, brine drain, and seemed to take a long time to to make an appreciable amount of water. What is the cost / benefit of the system as compares to something like a water softener system like I have now?

If it were me, I'd just go for a softener and filter system. You don't waste water that way, and it should be quite a bit cheaper. Like Jack says, you really don't want to drink RO water, and assuming you don't, it's just a question of mineral deposits. If you soften and filter, you can control most of that. You might still have to clean the shower glass every so often.

  • Basement AC and/or mini-split technology. The issues on a multi-head Mini should be worked out by your build time. No rooftop units.

I agree, no rooftop units. I was thinking 3 mini splits.

The trade-offs can get interesting--you can do a single outdoor unit with multiple indoor units, which saves space but gives you less redundancy. Don't forget to take advantage of the extra height on the build, either with higher ceilings or taller basements.

  • Full solar system/battery bank, etc driving the entire coach, including the air conditioning. Separate design process David and I will help you with.

A full solar array is planned as part of the 48 volt lithium system.

 

Definitely!

  • Propane storage. How about a rack of 20 lb bottles. Four, properly racked take no more space than two 40's. And sure are a lot easier to handle and refill. Depending on your stove/cooktop location you could even supply the stove with a single bottle...that way no lines going through the slides...less moving parts. Just depends on layout. We will go this route next time. I'd manifold them together, with two auto changeovers between bottle pairs. Turn one "bank" on at a time.

I have a 4/20lb system in my current rig and like it. Will probably do it again.

I definitely agree. 20lb tanks are just too easy--both in terms of carrying them, and filling/exchanging just about anywhere. RVIA doesn't allow 4 tanks though.

  • One RV furnace for backup heat. We rarely use ours. The heated floor and fireplace covers our needs down to the low 20's. If you had a Dickinson stove that would cover the rest. But you do want a backup, IMO.

I see the need for a backup heating system. Not sure I want the Dickinson stove, but there has got to be something more efficient than an RV furnace.

If you can build in the capacity, a propane-fired radiant floor heat would seem like the way to go, either with its own heater or shared with the domestic hot water supply.

  • The entire electrical system is a topic to itself. As you might imagine I have some specific requirements in that area. Starting with some arcane things like front and rear shore power input. Ethernet throughout the house, and a line that can run to the truck - requires plug input on both front of trailer and rear of truck. A separate input line to the trailer midship that allows augmentation of power. You can make this elaborate as you wish. To start, it feeds JUST a typical RV converter for charging your battery bank....but if you do the Dixon bank then that may not be required...

Agreed, that is a whole long topic itself.

Yep. Definitely consider two power inlets with a transfer switch, and look at the NFPA standard for RV site layouts and placement of connections on the RV. There are exceptions, but the math usually works.

  • BluDot braking actuation. I'd do Morryde on that, but you might want to do something else. One option may be to do a commercial setup with air on 19.5's. You just have to figure the tradeoffs.

In the preliminary contract with SpaceCraft, specs are for air suspension. I still want to weigh my options on the suspension though. I do plan on BluDot.

  • Water input on a reel.

Electric as well.

Also look at the FlexZilla hoses--they stay very flexible in cold temps. I have their air hose, and plan to swap out the hose on my water hose reel soon.

  • Genset can be small or a portable with the electrical system David and I will provide you. You should have many KW of solar on your roof.

Genset will be built in. Question is should it be diesel, gas, or propane? I'm thinking diesel.

I'd probably lean toward propane. Yes, you can empty a tank in a hurry, but you'll already have propane on board, and it'll practically keep forever. With lots of solar on the roof and big batteries, it shouldn't have to run that much or be that big. It's easier to swap out a propane tank than it is to use jerry cans or a transfer pump.

  • Consider 2" walls with foam. There are tradeoffs, but at least look at it. I'd foam the ceiling...you will get a lot more benefit from that than the walls. Marsha can do both.

Good insulation is a must. We don't necessarily follow the seasons.

Definitely. And do the energy balance calculations. Look at how Showhauler frames the inside of the window frames--it stops a lot of heat loss compared to the typical RV window installation.

  • Look at the Onyx shower systems. More money than the typical fiberglass Spacecraft uses, but custom to your needs, and better materials.

Not familiar with that. I'll look into it

  • I'd use Quartz for the countertops. But Corian or the knockoffs are OK.

Gail picks the counters she wants.

I've become a fan of butcher block. It can handle me using it as a workbench and still look good. One thing I'd suggest though is building the cabinets high enough that you can cover the range/cooktop and have it flush with the rest of the counter.

Consider solar water heating too--if done right, you can cool PV panels (and get more output), heat an intermediate temperature holding tank (insulated, of course), and reduce your cost for the floor heat and domestic hot water needs. If you wanted to get a little more fancy, you could use PV output to heat water further if you're fully charged and still in sunlight.

Think about the framing on the trailer tongue. If you go with a single beam to the coupling, make it long enough to allow a full 90-degree turn (i.e. more than 51" long). If it's an A-frame, consider making the front wall of the trailer a V-nose, like some of the race car haulers. That space could house mechanical stuff, or allow for a little bigger kitchen and basement.

Make sure the floor doesn't get insulated, and that the basement floor does. I've seen way too many RVs that put ducting into the basement for heat, without insulating the basement floor, and waste huge amounts of energy while still not preventing pipe freezing well. Make sure compartment doors have similar insulation as walls.

Consider entry door and compartment door locks that support central locking, and put a keyless system in place to allow locking/unlocking everything at once. Going a step further, make it the same keyless module as the truck, and carry one remote to lock everything.

Connect waste tank vents together, and run a single vent line to the roof.

Do lateral-arm awnings, and built in a recess for them on the sidewall so they sit flush when closed. Spec a vinyl-coated polyester mesh material (like PhiferTex). It lasts longer than acrylics, doesn't catch as much wind, yet still keeps things dry in all but a downpour. My first RV had them, and at 21 years old they looked brand new.

45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to

Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com

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http://www.precisiontemp.com/rv-and-trailer/twintemp-2-65000-btu-hydronic-tankless-water-heater-for-rv-and-trailers/

 

Propane and Electric elements, good for both domestic use and flooring

 

Space Craft uses this brand in their "Semi" models, or at least have in the past.

 

Are the Flexzilla hoses drinking safe?

Alie & Jim + 8 paws

2017 DRV Memphis 

BART- 1998 Volvo 610

Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins

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Residential refrigerators rarely have door locks (and I'm not sure that the few that have them would hold up to RV rigors). Bungee cords are a poor solution. Many doors have heating elements along the edges to reduce condensation. Be careful about drilling into doors to add locks. Ideally, you'd be able to roll the fridge out to allow access to the back (like you can in a stick & brick). An external service panel could accomplish the same. That way, if you need access for winterizing, repairs etc, it's easily done. My residential fridge is raised about six inches because of ducts that run along the floor. I'm sure it would be better to have such a heavy appliance ON the floor. Those extra six inches could make it a stretch for Gail to reach the top, back shelf. Has a dishwasher been mentioned yet? What about a washer & dryer?

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An electrical schematic showing where all the low & hi power lines are hidden.

If an enclosed bellypan, one 1.5" conduit from front to back to pull wires for a camera, or anything else you want later

2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins
"The Phoenix"
'03 KA 38KSWB

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Congrats Steve and Gail. No suggestions

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Folding Wings <_<

 

2011 Volvo VNL 730

2015 Mobile Suites Dallas - Kansas RV Center

2017 Smart

 

2014 Smart...Looking for another HDT ride

 

2007 Freightliner FL60 Sportchassis

2008 Raptor Toy Hauler

 

2007 Dodge 3500 Dully 6.7 Cummins

2009 Heartland Big Country

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