Water Heater Leak

[EagleEye]

Came back today and saw water dripping from under my RV. It appears to be coming from the water heater as it is wet under it. Both the cold water in and the hot out appear to be dry so I assume it is the tank that is leaking. Can anyone tell me is the cold water in and the hot water out the only two water connections on the back side of the water heater?
If the tank is leaking I assume the only possible fix is to replace the water heater.

[mesa]

Check your pressure relief valve, they love to leak.

[57becky]

There are only two water connections. If your PR valve was leaking, it would be obvious. I just replaced ours, a 12 gallon Suburban, and it was leaking from the tank at a weld. I had to swap over the 12 volt relay and the brass fittings at the rear, one was just a nipple for the cold, the other is a check valve on the hot outlet.

 

[Kirk W]

.................... Can anyone tell me is the cold water in and the hot water out the only two water connections on the back side of the water heater?

If the tank is leaking I assume the only possible fix is to replace the water heater.

In most cases there are only two connections to the water heater, but a few also have a feature called "motor aid" that has two more connections for coolant to and from the engine to keep water hot when traveling. Since you have a fifth wheel it is pretty safe to assume that yours isn't a motor aid model.

 

The water heater tank can be replaced but it really isn't very practical and if you were to pay an RV tech to replace it the cost would probably exceed the cost of putting in a new one. It is pretty normal for a water heater tank to fail after 10 years or so if fulltime. Probably it should be longer if part-time.

[EagleEye]

I guess it's time to order a new one. 57Becky, how hard was it to replace?

 

 

 

[AFchap]

My Atwood sprang a leak after 6 years and 50k miles of fulltiming. I had a mobile guy change it out, but would likely do it myself if faced with the same job today. I figured out aweek later the tech got the in/out hookups backwards and I had to correct them. How difficult to do would depend some on where it is. Mine in a basement compartment with limited access to the back, and the motoraid heat hookup is not the easiest.

[Kirk W]

In most cases, access is the main challenge. Mine was also in a basement space and access to it for connection was through a removable panel in the bottom.

 

You need to be sure that water and propane are off, remove the 12V-dc fuse and if it has 120V heat that circuit breaker must be turned off. Next, drain the water heater, go to the back and disconnect the water in and out, then from the front remove the propane line. Disconnect both electric sources and you are ready to unmount the old water heater. Most will have 4 screws in the outside edge of the rim around the access panel on the outside of the RV. It probably has some type of support for the weight inside but that is usually not attached to the water heater but just supports it. Once these are done, you should be able to pull the old water heater out the side and then reverse the order for the new one.

 

Make sure that you don't forget to turn off propane! I also use the stove top to burn off as much propane as possible before I open any propane connection for safety reasons. The other safety precaution is the 120V-ac power if your water heater has that. If you are not comfortable working with those items you would be wiser to pay to have yours replaces as it isn't a very expensive process. You will need to leak check your propane once you get the job finished.

[ronmon]

I had a tank leak in mine-- dont remember the exact model other than it was a larger one "EXT" in the model #. Whole new one was close to $1200. Shopped around for tank only & prices ranged from $800 down to around $250 or so.

Tweetys was the lowest with a special free overnight shipping. Did it myself in about 4 hours - was a PITA but had nothing else to do that day other than sittin around my daughters farm in Missouri!

Ron

[Bill Joyce]

We just replaced ours since it was leaking internally. It lasted 12 years of fulltime use. Ours is a motor aid model, so it did cost a bit more and less mail order places had them in stock. The swap out was under 2 hours of labor by someone who had done it many times before.

[Ronbo]

The electric element may be leaking. Some are on the front, some are on the back.

[WeBeFulltimers]

There are only two water connections. If your PR valve was leaking, it would be obvious. I just replaced ours, a 12 gallon Suburban, and it was leaking from the tank at a weld. I had to swap over the 12 volt relay and the brass fittings at the rear, one was just a nipple for the cold, the other is a check valve on the hot outlet.

 

 

My situation was the same. Ordered from Amazon $430 delivered (Free shipping) and installed myself and it was easy. Local dealer asked me $750 cash & carry. Mine was also 12 gallon Suburban.

[rpsinc]

Probably it should be longer if part-time.

 

Part time doesnt usually mean part time on the clock as sometimes using them part time can be more difficult on them as the heat/cool cycles happen more often and then they SIT!!! in between. Rust and corrosion becomes the enemy. Constant use as with full timing is likely better for any appliance including in S&B.

[57becky]

Like was said, access to the rear is necessary. I changed mine out in a little less than 4 hours. I was fortunate that all the components that needed to be transferred to the new unit were in excellent condition. You will need some pipe dope to use on the nipples into the tank fittings, possibly several butt splices for the 12 volt wiring that needed to be transferred to the new unit, and maybe a few minor screws or other hardware The outer trim that seals against the outer wall needed silicone caulking after reinstalling to the new unit. Other than that, just take your time, and pay attention to all the wires, 12 volt and 120 volt, so you get them reconnected properly. Also, when pushing the new unit into place, be careful to not pinch any of the wires, as there is very little clearance around the wall opening, or at least on mine, it was tight.

[EagleEye]

Thanks, I've ordered a new one and will have to find time to put it in after it arrives.

[EagleEye]

I got the new water heater and yesterday I found time to put it in. The hard part was getting the old one out. It just didn't want to slide out. Made all the connections and it worked. It fired right up with gas as soon as I turned it on. After that I switched over to electric and it took about 30 minutes before the water started getting warm and I knew it was working.

[Kirk W]

Great! Now it is time to let the wife know just how talented you are! That should definitely rate a very special meal, at least!