Dometic Fridge has no power

[Kirk W]

15 minutes ago, AFM said:

will let you know.

Great! We are traveling to Escapade, arriving today to start working with staff but I should be able to get back this evening so will check to see what happens. 

[AFM]

(DM2652 No Lights) OK well it turned out to be the 152 Degrees C Thermal Fuse. It would pass 12.6V under no load but the resistance went way up under load and the voltage at J4 dropped to 2.4V. I cut it out and voila, I have lights and the refrigerator starts cooling. I shut off the gas and will let it cool overnight on the electric service. 

I ordered these from Amazon for $7.99 (5-pack):

VG_S 5 pcs. 152C G4A00 Microtemp Thermal Fuse 152C TF Cutoff 10A 250V

The Dometic 3850870019 refrigerator thermo fuse seemed to be OK so I left it in place and ordered a spare. I could not find one at Amazon with the pushbutton, but I did find it at AdventureRV.net. It is their part number P318-3850870019.

Thanks again for help.

[Kirk W]

Thanks! Keep us posted on how this works out. 

[AFM]

The fridge ran all night on the electric service and is nice and cold top and bottom. Once the Thermal Fuse shows up I will install it and then run it on Propane for a while.

[AFM]

I inserted the new 152C Thermal Fuse and it all looks good. I am testing on Gas right now, but it did light right up. I am certainly keeping these on hand along with a spare pushbutton reset Thermofuse. Cheap and easy fix.

[FLCamper2148]

I think I might have had a different issue than what I've seen mentioned here. My RM2652 also had the "No Lights" issue. After downloading the Service Manual from the link provide on this forum, the troubleshooting steps pointed to a bad switch on the display board. However, on closer examination, I noticed some traces looked a bit corroded. So, I took my Ohmmeter and went point-to-point, following all of the traces. I found one that did not have continuity. That wasn't one that I actually would have guessed was bad, until I peeled off the "QC Inspection" sticker. Under the sticker, I could see the break!

I tacked a wire from the P1 connector pin to the switch pin, taking care to not short to the adjacent pin. I routed along the trace tacking it down with a bit of Hot Melt. It seems to be working now . . .

[Kirk W]

2 hours ago, FLCamper2148 said:

I tacked a wire from the P1 connector pin to the switch pin, taking care to not short to the adjacent pin.

Welcome to the Escapee forums! I used to sometimes do circuit board repairs in the field before I retired, but in my RV have only done very minor ones. I salute you for an impressive job! Please do join in with any of our forums or tipics.

[Dometic rv fridge]

I am having this same problem with a domestic DM2852   The 3V fuse has no voltage coming in. Does this mean board is bad?

 5 amp fuse has power and I have 13.7 V from the battery. 

[Kirk W]

1 hour ago, Dometic rv fridge said:

I am having this same problem with a domestic DM2852

Welcome to the Escapee forums! We will do all that we can to help. The first thing that you may want to do is to download a copy of the Dometic service manual from Bryant RV Service.

I am not sure what you mean by no voltage coming in? If the refrigerator is not receiving any 12V power there will be no display indications and no interior light. The 3a fuse is for the 12V supply so you may want to try replacing it, or if you have a volt/ohm meter, remove it and check it with the ohm meter as a good fuse will measure 0 ohms from end to end and a bad one nearly infinity. If your refrigerator has no display the lack of 12V is probably the problem. There is also a 5a fuse but it is only for the 120V power to the electric heating element, if 120v is in use. With no 12V the refrigerator will not cool on either 120V or propane. The 12V power is connected to the refrigerator via a terminal block something similar to the white one in this picture.

[RichardL]

On 4/8/2016 at 7:47 PM, tyates007 said:

Still no update. Ran complete trouble shoot per the repair manual. Everything seems to check out. Right now I have bypassed the control board and fridge is working on 110 but obviously I have no control. Right now just trying to save food till someone can figure it out. I had a tech look at it today. He is scratching his head as well. He thinks he has a spare board we are going to swap out and try.

Hello, I have the same exact model, which does not power on, I think is the LED control Board, was hot the lamp inside also burned something causing a short or something, I have checked all cables an the voltage to the upper board is 13.8 V which is good, I see that you do not have control but you jumped to have the refrigerator right? How can I Jump that to check if the refrigerator is working on AC or Propane at least until I figure out where I can buy this control board?

[Cbozeman]

On 6/22/2018 at 7:28 AM, Kirk W said:

Welcome to the Escapee forums. Do you have any lights on the refrigerator display or does the light inside turn on when you open the door? If it has any kind of indications that tells us that it does have 12V power. 

By that, do you mean that you also have no power at all? Have you looked at the Bryant RV website to see if he has a copy of the proper service manual for your model? Which model do you have? We will be happy to assist you but more information would be helpful. The main circuit board should have 2 fuses. There will be one that is 3a which supplies 12v power to all of the control circuitry and another that is 5a which supplies only the 120v to the electric heating element. You probably also have an over temperature device on or near the boiler which is there to prevent a fire if it gets too hot and those are not usually owner resettable but there is a way for service and the service manuals should address that. Depending on when your refrigerator was built, that device may be original or it might have been an update that was added later. 

I really do not have enough information to troubleshoot but may be able to assist if you give a bit more information. 

Hello Kirk, I am having the same issue with a Dometic DM2862. The thermal fuse on the boiler trips on both electric and gas mode. It has a reset button and when reset, the frig powers back up and runs 20-30 minutes and trips again. Bought a new thermal fuse, installed and same issue. 

[Kirk W]

7 hours ago, Cbozeman said:

The thermal fuse on the boiler trips on both electric and gas mode.

That is a pretty good indication that the boiler is overheating and the safety device is working as it should. Overheating usually means that there is a loss of refrigerant or the cooling system has plugged and refrigerant circulation has stopped. Either would mean that you need a new cooling unit. You can download a copy of the DM2862 service manual from this link.

Edited August 16, 2023 by Kirk W

[Cbozeman]

I don’t see any sign of a leak so it must be plugged. Thank you for the info, though not what I wanted to hear! 🤷🏼‍♂️