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Found 7 results

  1. Model 24G, length 25’ 6”, 30-amp service, 16’ awning, Wrap-around blinds, 32,000 miles Side and rear slide outs 3200W Onan diesel-powered generator (52 hrs used) Xantrex 1000W invertor Fore and aft TVs with remote controls AM/FM/Sirius-ready radio and GPS with rear camera monitor AM/FM CD/DVD entertainment system w/indoor and outdoor speakers Coleman 15,000 BTU air conditioner with heat-pump Norcold double-door refrigerator/freezer, LP/110V/12V (with engine running) Microwave/convection oven Capacities (gal): LP/Water Heater/Fresh/Gray/Black 13/6/31/40/34 Holding tank heaters 2-burner propane stove Over-cab bed with ladder Loveseat converts to bed 2 solar panels (total 180W, 15A) Tire Traker tire pressure monitoring system, Model TT500 w/booster for toad 2 Crown golf cart batteries (235 AH) upgrade w/water miser caps 30A Surge Guard Protection All factory manuals Other accessories (24 Lynx levelers, 12V auxiliary power jack, engine compartment rodent deterrent system, spice rack, wine glass holders, after-market cockpit rug, drawers and cabinets liners, 2 spare water filters, (2) 4-hook coat racks) 2016 Mercedes Benz Sprinter Chassis 6-Cylinder, 24-valve, 3.0 Liter, Turbo Diesel Engine 5 Speed Automatic Transmission 26-gal fuel tank 16-18 MPG (400-450 mi range) Price: $84,000
  2. Got Victron Inverter/Charger(Victron Energy MultiPlus 24/3000/70-50 Inverter with Charger ) Just realized it only has one hot, but I have 50 amps panel on my RV! now what? the shore line & generator input goes to a transfer case, and the output of transfer case suppose to go to inverter, but the inverter only has one hot, what do I do??? Please advise. Thank you! John
  3. In the process of designing 1,200w system for my motorhome I already decided to use 24v battery system. Should I use 24v batteries in parallel connection or use 12v batteries series & parallel connections to construct the 24v system? does it make any difference at all either way? All batteries are identical and will be purchase same time. Any pro and cons? Please advise. Thanks!
  4. I am designing a 6 100ahr battle born battery bank and 800w-1200w solar panel system for my 2017 35' motorhome.I understand that high voltage system is better as it requires smaller size cable and more efficient, smaller size charge controller, but I also would like the motor home alternator charge my batteries when I am driving (no a deal breaker but it is nice to have it) , Also the wires between the batteries ,bus bar & fuses are very close, so I do not see that much benefit on 24v battery bank system on my motorhome . Please let me know if I missed anything here.I am thinking about wire the solor panel at 24v and leave the battery bank at 12v use this MPPT charge controller:VICTRON ENERGY 30A SMARTSOLAR MPPT 100/30 CHARGE CONTROLLER W/ BLUETOOTHMaximum PV Open Circuit Voltage: 100VBattery Voltage: 12V/24V Auto SelectIt looks like I will be able to take the 24v or even 48v from solor panel and charge the 12v battery bank and take advantage of both 24v and 12v system, could anyone confirm that ?has anyone done this before?Also Battle born also sell the battery isolation manager, have anyone had any experience on this?Please advise.Thanks in advance.
  5. (I also posted this in the Victron Community Forums, but hoping to double up on potential viewers for more answers and suggestions.) To lay the groundwork for the question: We have a 50 amp fifth wheel. We bought the unit used from a private seller, very happy overall. The solar / Victron was installed by the seller or he had it done. We have 4x Battle Born 100ah LifePo4, 4x 190W solar panels, 2x MPPT, SmartBMV and the Victron 12/3000/120-50 We (the wife, the dog and I) are fulltimers, three months now! We have been, in the past three months, mostly on shore power, and always on (confirmed) 50 amps. We found that one of the monitor panels (not listed above) showed us at 30 amps continually. Reached out to seller, he indicated that if I had the inverter on, I'd be limited to 30 amps. Turned it to Off, and I'm back to 50 amps and I can run the air conditioners. Excellent for the Texas heat we'd been dealing with. Two days ago, we relocated to a park, and were fortunate enough to park in the shade. Sure, solar will be very much reduced, but that's okay: we have 50 amps. Tonight...the generator kicked on. Turns out we ran down the batteries to 50%. Direct DC usage in the rig, like lights, whatever else is straight DC, ran them down. With the Victron set to off, the shore power doesn't recharge the batteries. If I turn the Victron to just "Charger" (not Inverter), it will recharge the batteries, but I will still be limited to a 30 amp system. This feels wrong to me. I'm a programmer, have been for 30 years. I'm decent at debugging, but I haven't examined all the the wiring and gotten a deeper understanding of the layout. It just feels wrong that it's this way. When we have good sun, the batteries always get charged up the next day, even on cloudy days. We've been here, in the shade, for... two full days, I think. I'm trying to determine if one or more of the following are true: Is this a standard solar implementation scenario? That there is only ONE possible charger/converter to replenish the batteries installed at one time? Is there a possible wiring / schematic / system design oversight or bug. (I don't have a schematic yet, I have reached out to get one, if available.) There would have been an original charger/converter installed on the rig, before the Victron, etc. was installed. Does anyone ever have that still wired into the system? Really, my only choices are "have sun" or "be limited to 30 amps even when 50 amp shore power is available"? This cannot be right. I'm trying to determine that, if the Victron being on limits me to 30 amps, is there a different way to charge the batteries when on shore power? I know my question might be difficult to many without y'all knowing more about how it's wired up. But I'm hoping I kept my questions as free of the implementation as possible and focused on generalizations, and typical scenarios. For the moment, there's a chill coming into the area tonight and I don't need two A/C's. I'm okay with the 30 amps for now, and I'll get my batteries replenished. Not a long term solution. I truly appreciate any help anyone can put forth, or any education I can glean out of your answers. I did do extensive research into solar, DC, AC, converters/chargers, inverters, MPPT, etc. before we bought the rig. I feel sort of comfortable in my general knowledge. I was a little sad I didn't get to do the install myself so I'd REALLY know it, inside and out, but the deal was just too good to pass up and our seller was a pleasure to work with. But I lack the intimate knowledge that installing it myself would have gained. Thanks in advance for any assistance. - Will B. Somewhere in Kansas at the moment.
  6. RV solar! We finally installed solar panels on our toy hauler. Full time RV living is so much easier with solar. It's definitely not cheap but is a great investment, especially if you love boondocking.If you have been watching the channel for a while you know that we had a solar system installed on our last rig (Keystone Cougar). We swapped rigs over the summer and acquired a toy hauler with a built-in Cummins Onan 5500 generator. This has made it possible for us to boondock without solar and save up money for our full solar install. In the video we talk about lithium vs lead acid batteries, where we went to get the panels installed, and show you all the basics of our system. Hope you enjoy and please don't forget to SUBSCRIBE!
  7. Hello all RVers! Due to personal circumstances, I have to sell my truck and RV. I still consider myself a newbie (been full-time since 2017). I planned to do lots of US/Canada travelling but that hasn’t happened for me. I have been researching the best way to sell to receive the most money since I still owe on both. I listened to the RVdaily salesperson and that is not the right way to go! Consignment takes 10%. I’m willing to put the effort in to sell on my own, but would love input from members on how best to evaluate my RV. When I speak to consignment people, they just quote standard book value, etc, not taking into consideration any additions /enhancements you have made to your RV (truck dealers did the same thing so I’ve listed it on craig’s+). I may need to take a reality check but I think there is additional value added to an RV with the extras and that they should factor into the sales price. This is especially true concerning the full solar panels on top of the RV designed to make my RV maximum boondock-ready. Dealers say my RV (2017 Keystone Fuzion 420 Chrome luxury toy hauler) should list at $65-70k BEFORE the end of ‘rebate promotions’ Nov 2019 when price would drop $10-20k. I am seeking advice from anyone with experience selling their RV(s). I am posting this in several forums to garner maximum input. I welcome and appreciate all comments, suggestions, etc!!! What is recommended that I value the extras (listed below) to add to the base value? Is there any value in selling RV WITH my truck (super clean, under 12k 2017 Dodge Ram 3500 dually, also w/ extras) as a combo deal? I am living full-time in an RV park so I can’t park anywhere more visible. Anyone familiar with the end of ‘rebate period’ that I was told will affect what I can sell my RV for? RV has under 12k road miles on it 1440 watt array solar panels on top ($17k) fully wired into RV that automatically kick on when not on shore power. LG WM3997HWA Ventless 4.3 Cu. Ft. Capacity Steam Washer/Dryer Combination with TurboWash, TrueBalance Anti-Vibration System, NeveRust Stainless Steel ($1650) comes with Anderson Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection ($1200). slideout toppers welded receiver on front to hold bicycle carrier PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES EMS-PT50X Portable RV Surge Protector (50 A) – ($335) new 5th wheel skirt ($199). RV WeBoost 4g-x rv cell phone signal booster (never used, $499)
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