mscans

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About mscans

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/29/1946

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    Male
  • Location
    Apopka, Florida
  • Interests
    Aparently not much of anything. Just sold off the RV, wife not interested and I am too old to be single again....but that is a thought. Gotta find a plan "B".

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  1. I have a styro cooler in the back of my van and keep it stocked with bottles of water. if the top is left open at night and closed early in the day the contents stay cool all day. I would keep a couple of bottles of water with the meds for "thermal mass" to help the load through the day.
  2. Give this Eastwood unit a glance. http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html They have a reputation of good quality and design. Wire weld is one of the few legal ways to do structural work on a vehicle. This unit will do 1/4" in one pass, just have to deal with the need for gas but you do get good (and pretty) welds.
  3. Since the new layout occurred my number of posts dropped from almost a 1000 to about 150.  What happened???  Can I get that corrected.

    This is my second request, am I notifying the correct person?

     

    Thanks,

  4. It is possible that the frequency output of the generator (60 Hz,) is out of line. Many items will run fine with incorrect frequency but the A/C may be pulling a high load due to the low frequency, most other appliances don't care. A Kill-O-Watt meter can check the frequency else you have to see an electrical tech. Good luck, let us know what you find.
  5. And this is related to investing and stocks HOW?
  6. In this case of some small panels wired directly to the batteries there is still a controller . . . YOU! If you are manually connecting/disconnecting the panels then you are working as the controller, a very expensive and unreliable one but still a controller.
  7. My post count dropped from almost 1000 posts to 155 with the new layout.  What happened and can I get the number corrected?

  8. DON'T wire direct to batteries. You always need a controller, even an inexpensive one, which for only a couple of panels it will be. Controller prevents overcharging if the RV is parked and unused and from discharging the batteries at night. There are many experts here and on line, check other sources for more info.
  9. Dutch, great ides. I never looked to see what connections existed. What a happy coincidink that they are the same.
  10. Obviously you got lucky. There is no question that "out of level" operation will damage the refrigerator. Manufacturers, users and after market companies ALL are aware of the problem and take steps to prevent/reduce the damage. Your story of traveling constantly may explain why you were "lucky" as constant motion does NOT require religious leveling. The constant motion keeps the fluids moving and not stagnating causing the overheat situation. Great hearing from you though.
  11. Dicor has self leveling and non-sag. Self for the horizontal surfaces nad the non sag for vertical surfaces, Pick the right one for the job.
  12. The tank you listed, and most of this type, use an internal pressure bladder. When the tank is emptied, the bladder is still under pressure so it drives out virtually all of the water. I would only worry about the small amount of water in the lines after it is drained, that would be the only water that could freeze. This type of fitting Tube fittings can be used easily to connect/disconnect, just watch sizes. Normally PEX requires special fittings and crimp rings with a special tool to do the actual crimping, expensive! Won't comment on the actual pump, several good ones available, look for 4 chamber models. A loop of soft reinforced tubing at inlet and outlet plus placing the pump on a pad (carpet remnant etc.) will keep the pump quiet. Consider putting in a winterizing kit at that time also. Also a retired engineer: process, chemical and mechanical.
  13. Even level, a new product ( https://www.arprv.com/) will protect the refrigerator and give you some important info regarding its operation.
  14. I second Dave, the Trikl-start or its big brother do great. I had one on my class-A and it worked as advertised. I hard wired it in, took about a half hour but I tied up all the lines, screwed the charger to the firewall and loomed everything to be neat.
  15. Magnifying your picture it appears that the outer valve is marked grey valve while the other must be the black water valve. Somewhere in that area and below is a single connection for the "stinky slinky" waste line. The waste line with the why connection is where they drain to. To empty (after connecting the slinky to the dump area SECURELY), pull the black valve first, wait till the tank is dumped and the noise stops, close the black tank valve and then open the grey tank valve. That may take longer to drain as the tank is bigger, you dump more grey water to the tank than black and the line to the tank is smaller, wait till the noise stops completely and close the grey water tank valve, done. As discussed in many other posts do NOT leave the black tank open when using the unit, the pyramid of poop is the result. ain't pretty. As mentioned above, get a tech to walk you through the whole process. Look at the myriad of you tube videos or get a video from RV education 101 that is appropriate for your trailer. Learn about the trailer and have fun.