mscans

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About mscans

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  • Birthday 04/29/1946

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    Apopka, Florida
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    Aparently not much of anything. Just sold off the RV, wife not interested and I am too old to be single again....but that is a thought. Gotta find a plan "B".
  1. Dutch, great ides. I never looked to see what connections existed. What a happy coincidink that they are the same.
  2. Obviously you got lucky. There is no question that "out of level" operation will damage the refrigerator. Manufacturers, users and after market companies ALL are aware of the problem and take steps to prevent/reduce the damage. Your story of traveling constantly may explain why you were "lucky" as constant motion does NOT require religious leveling. The constant motion keeps the fluids moving and not stagnating causing the overheat situation. Great hearing from you though.
  3. Dicor has self leveling and non-sag. Self for the horizontal surfaces nad the non sag for vertical surfaces, Pick the right one for the job.
  4. The tank you listed, and most of this type, use an internal pressure bladder. When the tank is emptied, the bladder is still under pressure so it drives out virtually all of the water. I would only worry about the small amount of water in the lines after it is drained, that would be the only water that could freeze. This type of fitting Tube fittings can be used easily to connect/disconnect, just watch sizes. Normally PEX requires special fittings and crimp rings with a special tool to do the actual crimping, expensive! Won't comment on the actual pump, several good ones available, look for 4 chamber models. A loop of soft reinforced tubing at inlet and outlet plus placing the pump on a pad (carpet remnant etc.) will keep the pump quiet. Consider putting in a winterizing kit at that time also. Also a retired engineer: process, chemical and mechanical.
  5. Even level, a new product ( https://www.arprv.com/) will protect the refrigerator and give you some important info regarding its operation.
  6. I second Dave, the Trikl-start or its big brother do great. I had one on my class-A and it worked as advertised. I hard wired it in, took about a half hour but I tied up all the lines, screwed the charger to the firewall and loomed everything to be neat.
  7. Magnifying your picture it appears that the outer valve is marked grey valve while the other must be the black water valve. Somewhere in that area and below is a single connection for the "stinky slinky" waste line. The waste line with the why connection is where they drain to. To empty (after connecting the slinky to the dump area SECURELY), pull the black valve first, wait till the tank is dumped and the noise stops, close the black tank valve and then open the grey tank valve. That may take longer to drain as the tank is bigger, you dump more grey water to the tank than black and the line to the tank is smaller, wait till the noise stops completely and close the grey water tank valve, done. As discussed in many other posts do NOT leave the black tank open when using the unit, the pyramid of poop is the result. ain't pretty. As mentioned above, get a tech to walk you through the whole process. Look at the myriad of you tube videos or get a video from RV education 101 that is appropriate for your trailer. Learn about the trailer and have fun.
  8. With the charger off and the disconnect disconnected, check the voltage on the batteries. Turn on the charger and check again. If there is no change then they are not being charged. Turn the disconnect back on and check again. If the voltage is higher and probably rising then you know that the disconnect must be on to charge the batteries. BTW, if the charger is NOT a 3-4 stage unit then do NOT leave it on for long periods or you will cook the batteries. Replace the charger with a multistage unit or charge it with a good multistage trickle charger.
  9. I keep mine in an old bucket from naval days where it was used to collect muzzle blast samples.
  10. Take a voltage reading from neutral to ground WITH loads running at the pedestal. You should see virtually zero volts under all conditions. If a reading of 3-5 v. or more appears at any time, your upstream neutral is compromised. Sit by the pedestal (with a cool one) and watch the meter as someone inside turns on and off the various loads and see what happens. Good luck and let us know the outcome.
  11. A new product that is becoming popular is LWV (luxury woven vinyl) see this install review http://www.loveyourrv.com/lwv-flooring-thumbs-rv-dogs/ for some explanation and post install review. Good luck, Mike
  12. At 13.6 V. with no load, it looks like it is charged. But ANY load should not drop the voltage that far as the "charged" battery should make up for it. Your converter is old style single voltage junk.. even if it was working it will kill your battery in short order. The battery should have held 12+ volts with only lights on so the battery is probably shot and/or out of water, check and refill if needed. If the battery is full and connections are clean and tight then the battery is bad. Replace the converter with one that has 3-4 stages of charge such as one of the progressive dynamic units http://www.progressivedyn.com/power_converters_9100.html with the charge wizard. If you have diagnosed the battery as weak or bad then replace as necessary. The above converter will extend the life of the battery and prevent low voltage problems even WITHOUT a battery connected. Good luck and have fun. Mike
  13. Chairs are rated for 300 #. See https://www.strongbackchair.com/ for information on sizes, colors etc. have fun.
  14. Probably on the 14th team of horses by now!
  15. Never saw that, thank you, I stand corrected. Must be used on higher end units NOT in my price range!