Validated Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About oldjohnt

  • Rank
    Major Contributor

Optional Fields

  • Lifetime Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    RV Travel, Antique Tractor Shows, Bluegrass Festivals, Snowbirding

Recent Profile Visitors

4,394 profile views
  1. Doc, good points. Indeed there's V = I x R Voltage Drop in each inch of the circuit from the utility transformer all the way to the end load and the more the current and the smaller the wire (plus often the more connections/splices) the more line voltage drop. In our huge Naval industrial complex where I practiced when 120/240 volt single phase three wire circuits exhibited different voltage levels my first instinct was to check all the connections. A simple visual inspection often revealed off color or brown or burns at the connections. John T
  2. aunut, I heard and read the same thing about Castrol Magnatek Synthetic Oil and Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer IE it "supposedly" leaves a better longer lasting film of oil on bearing surfaces which "supposedly" reduces dry start problems, is it true or not ??????????????????? I wouldn't bet the farm one way or the other lol and exact scientific proof or disproof hmmmmmmmmmmm. REGARDLESS I use BOTH and I'm stickin to it since its not very expensive. As far as what brand of oil or which if any additives, I wouldn't try and convince anyone, to each their own choices. John T
  3. FWIW I agree with the fine gents above, only a couple volts under 115, or 113 per your question, shouldn't cause undue harm to your AC, it might run just a tad warmer as voltage drops but shouldn't pose any serious problem. In many years or RV park experience I've seen too many under designed parks when its extremely hot and several RV's park (and run AC) voltage falls to unacceptable levels. Trouble is unless you're closely monitoring voltage levels or utilize a protective device, voltage can gradually creep down below acceptable levels which can, if left uncorrected, cause some harm. No easy runs or free lunches out there lol. John T
  4. FWIW its been some time but my step father and I used to own and lease diesel trucks and we were advised to exercise an engine on a regular basis BUT ONLY IF you drove them a sufficient time to achieve operating temps iE don't just start and let idle and think you did a great thing. On a genset I start and run them UNDER LOAD for at least say 30 minutes once a month. A dry start when enough time has passed there's little oil film left is hard on an engine in my opinion. If there's no pre lube pump system to avoid such If available I like to 1) Use oil filters that have the anti drain back valve feature,,,,,,,,,,,,,,2) Use oil such as Castrol Magnatek that "supposedly if you believe advertising" leaves more of an oil film residue on bearing surfaces,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,3) Use snake oil like Lucas Stabilizer that again if you believe advertising leaves more of an oil film residue on bearings. I'm NOT saying if the above works or don't work whatsoever, do as you like, its just a practice I use and cant prove nor disprove if it helps any if at all, just a thought to ponder. To each their own John T
  5. CONGRATULATIONS It doesn't take much soot, carbon or rust in the orfice or burner assembly or flu to lower the flame level so just your messing with it may have cured it ??? Only time will tell. As I previously noted every 6 months I clean the burner and flu and orfice as part of routine maintenance so if it keeps working Id still service and check it on a regular basis. Surely inside the door or the freezer or on the base of the unit you will find a data plate ?? If not look in the outside compartment but I've normally found a data plate or sticker somewhere inside the box. John T
  6. Dan, to your question " I wonder if part of the problem with gas refrigerators not working good is while traveling the ref is not level due to the crown of the road" While its true the fridge may not be absolutely perfect level when driving (but how many are level when parked ???) after years and years of experience with a ton of different RV's using LP Gas refrigerators, ITS BEEN MY EXPERIENCE THEY ACTUALLY COOLED THE BEST WHILE DRIVING !! I once read its due to the fact the vibration and movement actually helps circulate the refrigerant in those tiny tubes back down to the bottom where the cycle repeats itself. Additionally, the air movement while driving can affect performance. Of course you or others may have different experiences or there are other factors at play while driving versus setting, I'm ONLY relating my own experiences. John T
  7. Absent fault codes not being there I cant say why yours shut down, but I have observed at least three Onan's on extreme hot days running heavy AC load over a long period shut down for over temperature. Once things cooled down they worked fine again no problem. I have seen some gents on extreme hot days running the genny to power the AC have the genset door open I assumed to help cooling??? Two AC units operating at high temps drawing maybe 12 + amps each is a heavy load indeed. John T
  8. For me the decision would rest a lot on how much if any extended dry camping you do. If you dry camp and must use the dryer Id opt for LP gas (but still wow takes a lot of your stored water to do laundry) but if your usually plugged to 50 amp shore power Id opt for electric, preferably 220 if such units are available ?? For extended dry camping an electric unit would suck up so much battery power and you would need one HUGE expensive solar and energy storage system plus a ton of water for the washing. John T
  9. You're welcome. Looks like there's at least some agreement above you might have dirt or rust or soot or crud in the burner area (or perhaps a clogged orfice or a partly plugged flu) which can cause insufficient cooling. I owned a ton of RV's over the years as a user and dealer and had to repair the darn things grrrrrrrrrrrr but as I noted above none used a "pilot" type arrangement, they were lit or not lit which isn't hard to determine. FWIW My outer flu assembly can run "warm" but not so "hot" you cant touch it. HOWEVER describing how big or how blue or how tall or how bright the flame should be over the internet is problematic, but if they are lit or not isn't. After troubleshooting your particular make and model using the correct manual it wouldn't hurt to do what I do at least twice a year anyway as part of regular preventive maintenance WHICH IS TO CLEAN THE BURNER AND FLUE AND VENTING and heck that may well be all you need ???? and has often cured similar problems in my experience, but if Murphy is present you problems may be more complex grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr PS over many years and many RV's its RARE but I have seen LP Gas Pressure Regulation problems in which there was insufficient gas pressure and low flame levels in water heaters or furnaces etc. but that's NOT my first "guess" as the cause of your problem......... John T
  10. If AFTER you go to Bryant RV or elsewhere to get a manual and work through tis troubleshooting tips if it still cools fine on electric but NOT LP Gas FWIW here are my thoughts: 1) When you state "The pilot light may only be on" my LP fridges DONT USE A PILOT LIGHT system like some older style furnaces or hot water heaters. There's ONLY the main burner that's either lit or its not. 2) Often there's an inspection hole/port or sheet metal you can remove or open to actually see if its lit or not YOU HAVE TO DETERMINE IF THE BURNER IS LIGHTING. If it cools to at least some degree but not real cold see below. If it fails to light at all I will cover that later. 3) IF IT LIGHTS but not real cold, I have seen cases where soot or carbon build up over and around the burner reduces heat so she doesn't cool well INSURE THE BURNER IS CLEAN. I have used small brushes and compressed air to clean the burner area and the burner and its top to get a good blue flame. 4) IF IT LIGHTS but not real cold I have removed the tubing from the inlet to and through the orfice and burner to clean and blow out any restrictions. That's a SMALL opening and tubing and orfice but it needs to be clean and free YOU NEED A GOOD BLUE FLAME 5) I have seen the flu area and venting out to roof top sooted or clogged up which reduces cooling. She needs to breathe and vent out all the way out to the top. 6) Insure theres no insulation or dirt or "stuff" clogging the flu and venting, the rear of the fridge has to be clean and free. 7) If it doesn't light at all the gas valve may be bad (insure it gets voltage and opens) or theres an electronics or t stat or controls problem TYPICAL CAUSES I FOUND for poor cooling on gas (if okay on electric and assuming it lights) is a weak flame caused by a clogged/sooted burner or burner top or the small tube and orfice to the burner is clogged or the flu and vent is clogged or sooty It may just need a good cleaning if you already found debris, the burner and flu and tube and orfice all have to be clean so there's a good blue flame. Let us know what you find, if its a controls or t stat problem it gets deeper John T
  11. Good Morning Kinsey, FWIW I agree with your statement "The only drawback is needing an MPPT controller rather than a PWM type. MPPT controller are quite a bit more expensive. OTOH you get much more of the power that hits your panel to go into your battery." Having used BOTH PWM and MPPT solar charge controllers, I have an MPPT now and Id NEVER GO BACK. Of course, to each their own opinions preferences and budget as both still indeed work under the right circumstances. Have a good one, safe travels John T
  12. Dutch, Thanks for the feedback Looks like we agree and are on the same page. If the pedestal ONLY has 30 Amp and 15/20 Amp receptacles they "probably" only ran a single (one leg) Hot, Neutral and Ground to the pedestals. Indeed, sufficient ampacity feeders and proper overcurrent protection and perhaps even the "tap rules" may come into play making it all code compliant. Obviously in years past long before the behemoth 50 amp RV's, 30 amp and single leg distribution was adequate. ANG, You're welcome. John T Long retired and rusty on this but still enjoy the topic and try to help if I can
  13. Yo Good Dutch Man, When you say " even on sites that only had 30 amp and 15/20 amp outlets. In those rare situations where only 50 amp and 30 amp outlets were available, I used a 50/30 adapter for the 30 amp cord, and a 30/20 adapter for the 2nd A/C." Not being there I cant say, but WONDER if a pedestal has ONLY a 30 amp receptacle and 15/20 amp receptacle if there happens to be BOTH legs available (depends on how many wires they ran DUH) in there with each receptacle on their own leg orrrrrrrrrrrrr if they only ran one 120 leg to the pedestal, depends on the park and its age Id guess ??? Of course if it has all three, a 50 amp and a 30 amp and a 15/20 amp receptacles, hopefully the 30 and 15/20 are on separate legs. FWIW That's how I would design it. Your method sounds cheap easy and simple, a country boy can survive !!! I have some small "heartburn" with a 50 Amp Male to a 30 amp Female dogbone to plug in the RV's 30 amp power cord BUT FOR DARN SURE IT WORKS and I see it done all over. Fun sparky chattin with yall. Now the OP a Master Electrician can do as he well pleases, he's certainly qualified. John T
  14. WARNING those who don't like long deep discussions and theory you don't have to read this ! Wow a Master Electrician, I certainly respect that profession and much of my professional career (Power Distribution Design Engineer) I spent working with such and electrical technicians, we got along great and worked well together. I learned a thing or two from them along the way and likewise, they from me. Okay you ALREADY know all this, but for the benefit of some who may not, the thing different about an RV is that unlike the main panel in a home, in the RV panel the Neutral Buss and Equipment Ground Busses are separate and electrically insulated and isolated from each other. The tub/frame, of course, is bonded to the Equipment Ground but NOT the Neutral. The RV panel is treated like a "sub panel" (which it is) fed off a main panel and complies with single point grounding theory and there be ONLY ONE Neutral/Ground BOND. Your proposal to use the 50 amp two leg park power so you can run the rest of the RV off one leg and your AC off the other leg sounds fine to me in theory at least, provided all overcurrent protection and grounding is proper which you are well qualified to undertake. LET ME WALK MYSELF THROUGH THIS to see if were on the same page ?? Your new 120/240 volt single phase three wire 50 amp panel is fed by 6/3 w/ground rubber cord, it has separate Neutral and Ground Busses, and it has a 30 amp 120 volt single pole breaker (leg A) to feed your 30 amp 120 volt RV receptacle into which your existing power cord will be plugged. Is it correct that NEW panel ALSO has a 120 volt 20 amp single pole breaker FED OFF THE OTHER LEG FROM WHICH THE RV RECEPTACLE IS SERVED which you're going to use to power your AC ?????????? So far that above still sounds okay to me HOWEVER that splicing of your AC circuit in the existing RV panel seems different although, sure, it will "work" but I need to "sleep on it and ponder" There are other ways to accomplish what you intend but I wonder about the use of or removal of the new panel you spoke of above ??? Maybe some sort of dual receptacles or a transfer switch so you can switch the AC feed from one source or another ?? It's more the mechanics, logistics and any switching of this I'm not sure of for now, but the idea of RV on one leg and AC the other sounds fine. As you know its the Thermal portion of a 30 amp Thermal Magnetic Circuit Breaker that is heating up and tripping due to a long sustained 25 amp draw or a weak breaker as you mentioned Some folks use a 50 to 30 amp dogbone adapter to feed their 30 amp RV via the 50 amp service ya know (not an answer to your problem exactly but can help some situations), but absent correct and proper overcurrent protection its NOT something I'd recommend !!! Enough for now, theory sounds fine but not sure of the wiring and connections and methods and "removal" you spoke of?? John T
  15. Yo Jim, NOPE I wasn't intending to be facetious, its ONLY that's the story of my life lol many do things one way like you were talking about but sillyyyyyyyy meeeeeeeee I'm often different grrrrrrrrrrr. My very first system was indeed 12 volts but with a different RV and our local supplier offering the 24 volt 245 watts panels at 90 cents per watt that's the route I chose. I'm happy to agree its still working great even if NOT as you claimed "almost all RV systems are based on 12 volt panels" Best wishes now and take care John T