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Day's End

Great places to park.

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    • Al, My email is rogerjones218@gmail.  com I am going to buy the straps , ditch the hand ratchets, us the binders on my tire chocks and it will work great, just thinking outside of the box, and I still can use the ratchets on my 2" straps that are worn out, or rusted up. Rogetr  
    • In Goshen Indiana getting the front jacks replaced then to Elkhart to get Mor/ryde ti check the rubber springs, I have lost 2 of them this year, and it looks like I have 2 more getting ready to go, they are not bonded correctly, rubber is good, just not attached to the metal mounting plates. Then if no bad weather might head to Canton Ohio to see big Al. Roger
    • We're going April 1st, just got back from South Dakota with drivers license, registration, and insurance. Booked our summer spot at Masseys Landing in Delaware. Cathy is retiring in March, and I will continue to work from home, now on rubber rather then concrete.
    • Spent quite a bit of time researching before we ended up going with a Class A instead. Many of the same shopping principals carry across from trailers, fivers and Class A's. Here is advice I've just a few months ago given a friend who is now shopping: -Pick a budget range, and retain a hunk of coin to do any catch up maintenance, and or customization to make it 'your RV'. -Research and choose the highest quality manufacturers and models that you both like. You have to be able to live in the thing, so if you don't like a specific model - it does not matter how good it is. Don't be afraid to drop years to remain within budget, while still purchasing the higher quality units. Quality lasts. And a quality built unit, will have a better 'foundation' to start from. (And of course, even a quality unit, can be abused and neglected so much to just move on...) -Go shopping, and be ready to move fast when the unit you like is found. And also IMO, don't get hung up on getting the absolute 'best deal/lowest price'. I'd rather pay more for an RV that has obviously been well cared for, had upgrades and refreshing, and components added during the years. No matter what you buy, it's not an financial investment as much as an emotional investment. So getting a 'creampuff' at an over rock bottom costs - could pay dividends in the emotional side of enjoyment.  As you have not mentioned budget range, I'll add a NuWa Hitchiker and Teton and Carriage to the lists. These are not at the same level as the New Horizon or Spacecraft, but certainly compare week with the DRV.  Most of the higher end units, are going to be heavier, which ripples then to the vehicle used as a tow vehicle...  Best of luck to you both, and have fun along the way, Smitty    
    • OK, I'm up and running with the pics.  Maybe a bit bigger than required but it is what it is. First pic is of stock chock as they came with deck for the Gen 1.  The passengers rear tire and rt side of the car stayed in the same location relative to the fairing.  The 2017 is longer so the rear chock needed a plate under to reach out beyond the deck.  The rear tire sits on the plate so that eliminates unloading from the passengers side 'cus I can't get the plate and chock out.  I'm Ok with that, it's a non issue. You will also see the old tiedowns in the deck.  They were directly behind the 4 wheels and having had 2 smashed wrists, reaching around a corner to hook on the tire baskets was not easy.  The new car tiedowns are on the rail.  The rail attachment pcs have 3 points of contact with the rail.  The smaller rail attachment pcs have 2.  I deferred to the suppliers suggestion, bit the bullet and got the bigger ones.  The stock rings were replaced with the oval rings shown in the pic. The drivers rear tie just misses the deck hatch, barely.  The current tiedowns are mounted outboard of the car but not by too much. The holes in the added pce of deck plate are slotted and wider than the bolt so the chock can be skewed if the car is loaded on crooked. Old smart wheels were 22" diameter, new wheels are  24"  so tire basket need to be modified.  Another non issue. Because the 17 is longer than the 06 the A frame needed to be extended to stand off the side of the truck more.  I'll explain more about that if you want more info' cus there is a lot to come. My A frame is a double, in my opinion the one jack had on his other truck would be more than adequate. My A frame sockets stayed in the same location which means that with the  car being 5 or 6 "  wider than the 06, the pull point is 3" off center....another non issue. Yes, I know the vinyl is peeling.  That's been dealt with. The retainers on the hooks have been pulled back and held in place with 2  wire ties in an X shape.  I have no flexion in the right thumb and no means to depress the spring clip when hooking to the deck ring. My A frame with the extensions is stored in the truck cab storage under the sleeper.  3 gallons of water and the roadside trianges call there home. The original location where Herrin put it, buried it behind other stuff, all of which had to come out in order to retrieve the A frame. More later if you want. I can also walk you thru the process of loading pics once I've refigured how to do it myself again.   Let me know R
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